Doug

<p>I used an existing bolt I had on hand. If it's&nbsp;not&nbsp;threaded&nbsp;to&nbsp;the&nbsp;ball&nbsp;head,&nbsp;it will&nbsp;fall&nbsp;out.&nbsp;That&nbsp;can&nbsp;be&nbsp;fixed&nbsp;with&nbsp;a design modification to the printed&nbsp;part&nbsp;or a&nbsp;retaining&nbsp;"u"&nbsp;clip&nbsp;similar to&nbsp;what&nbsp;is&nbsp;used&nbsp;on the&nbsp;mini&nbsp;legs&nbsp;to&nbsp;keep&nbsp;the&nbsp;1/4 -&nbsp;20&nbsp;held&nbsp;in&nbsp;place&nbsp;when&nbsp;not in&nbsp;use.&nbsp;Depending on the head you use, you can use something like this:</p><p><a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-D-ring-Screw-Quick-Release/dp/B006GB5MDW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417994556&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=camera++bolt">http://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-D-ring-Screw-Quick-Release/dp/B006GB5MDW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1...</a><br></p><p>-or-<br></p><p><a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.amazon.com/Smallrig-Longer-D-ring-Screw-Camera/dp/B006XDBUZ2/ref=pd_sim_p_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=06T5MEPVQ6A0TQZH0Y0Q">http://www.amazon.com/Smallrig-Longer-D-ring-Screw-Camera/dp/B006XDBUZ2/ref=pd_sim_p_1?ie=UTF8&amp;r...</a><br></p><p><br></p><p>For the&nbsp;legs:&nbsp;I&nbsp;used&nbsp;a 10-24&nbsp;threaded&nbsp;post&nbsp;with a&nbsp;little super glue tightened&nbsp;into&nbsp;the brass&nbsp;thermoplastic&nbsp;10-24&nbsp;insert&nbsp;on&nbsp;the&nbsp;top&nbsp;of&nbsp;the&nbsp;legs (both&nbsp;sides).&nbsp;The spherical knobs for micro&nbsp;adjustment&nbsp;leveling&nbsp;on&nbsp;each&nbsp;side&nbsp;use&nbsp;a&nbsp;thermoplastic 10-24 insert.&nbsp;They can completely&nbsp;unscrew,&nbsp;if needed.&nbsp;The&nbsp;knob&nbsp;on the center 1/4&nbsp;20&nbsp;bolt&nbsp;is&nbsp;snap&nbsp;fit&nbsp;and&nbsp;I&nbsp;added&nbsp;a little&nbsp;superglue to ensure&nbsp;it was permanent. Any&nbsp;hex&nbsp;head&nbsp;1/4&nbsp;20&nbsp;should&nbsp;fit,&nbsp;but&nbsp;you might&nbsp;have&nbsp;to&nbsp;experiment/mod the&nbsp;design&nbsp;or&nbsp;press&nbsp;fit&nbsp;it&nbsp;in&nbsp;a&nbsp;vice&nbsp;since&nbsp;your&nbsp;hardware&nbsp;store&nbsp;probably&nbsp;carries&nbsp;slightly&nbsp;different&nbsp;inventory&nbsp;than&nbsp;my local&nbsp;store.</p>

Update 12/5/14: Added editable Cinema4D source file for this design. C4D r13 or newer required. You can download a free C4D demo for 30 days at Maxon.com File name: PET_MocoRig_FULL_v1G_Small&LargeCart_MASTER.c4d

Hi Marcus, The original design files were created in Cinema 4D. I would be happy to post them, but most users do not work in C4D. I'm an animator more than an engineer, so I used the tool set already available to me. Mixing imperial and metric is somewhat inevitable when working with camera equipment and stepper motors. All of the stepper motors use metric (i.e. m3) while camera equipment favors imperial most of the time (i.e. 1/4 20). Ultimately, I built with the hardware on hand from existing projects. This was originally built with my own personal goal in mind to shave weight for hiking with a moco rig. In the end, I decided to share it with others on this page. I know the final documentation isn't crystal clear and there is surely room for improvement, but I would like to think it at-least offers a robust design and general starting point for anyone else hoping to build something similar. Thanks

The full worm drive assembly requires two 1/4" pulleys: one for the detachable worm drive and one for the opposite end of the slider built into the end cap and covered with a snap-fit level above. In my case, the pulley with the 6mm bore was used to add compatibility for a standard NEMA 17 planetary gear (5:1, 27:1) inplace of the worm drive. You will need to use a drill press to open up the ID to fit the 8mm NEMA 17 shaft. You could just buy 3 of Part #615376, no need for Part #615384 (6mm shaft). I just happened to have purchased a few before I made the designs and used what I had on hand in the end. It's convenient to have the option to switch between the worm drive (secure vertical holding without power, SMS) or planetary gears (speed, smooth video) depending on your application. I'll double check your hardware list soon (away from the finished prints at the moment).

I just added the file: MidSpan.stl The pan module works great, but I it's designed for SLS printing (Shapeways). It's not designed or optimized for home printing without a ton of support material (resulting in a poor overall print). I hope to re-design it soon and post the files.

General note: I have not had the time to document which thermoplastic inserts apply to each individual part. In most cases, it should be intuitive based on fit before permanently inserting them with the soldering iron. I'll try to add documentation for each part, until then please feel free to ask any questions and I'll help along the way!

Thanks for pointing out yet another missing file! I just added what you need: "MotorBlock_v2.stl"

Good catch. “V F Static” AND “Static Clamp V1” are actually unneeded parts (old design iteration) that accidentally got uploaded. I have removed and replaced them with 2 new STL files.<div><br></div><div><b>1. “V F Slide Part C - belt clamp.stl”</b> is what you will need to complete the sliding belt tensioning assembly.</div><div><br></div><div><b>2. “static_belt_rev3_dualbolts.stl”</b> - this is the correct static belt clamp with dual 8-32 thermoplastic inserts (McMaster Carr Part # 93365A140)</div>