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calinb

  • Joined on Sep 08, 2013
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Favored Reptar XY! - Version Two almost 2 years ago
Commented on Ninjaflex Geared Ultimaker 2 Feeder almost 2 years ago
I just realized that I have some Polymaker Flex filament in my inventory that I've never even tried to print. It might be less slippery than my Makergeeks Flex filament, but I'm sure I'll still need to "chase" any flexible filament through my UMO Bowden tube with some stiff PLA. If the Polyflex doesn't have a slippery surface, it might be a good alternative to Ninjaflex for the wheels. I definitely think I need this Ninjaflexwheel feeder for my UMO but I might make a new mod to my UMO first anyway--just to see how much it helps with flexible filament. I can drill the Bowden tube path much closer to the knurled drive bolt and push the Bowden deeper for less gap. On the other hand, it might not help much, because that path in the UMO feeder is already supporting the filament with a Delrin pressure foot on the back and a square channel in the wood frame on the other three sides, which fit the filament quite well. I even sprayed the wood path with Teflon dry lube, but I think my Maker Flex filament still hangs-up and kinks a little there. I actually have two feeders for my UMO, because UM updated my original (OUMO? ;)) feeder to the Bertho (roller bearing) style shortly after I bought my UMO so UM sent the upgraded feeder with my kit at no charge. I also turned my own hobbed brass bolt in a fixture I made for my lathe. The hobbed brass actually grips a little better than the knurled UM design but, when the hobbed bolt grinds the filament all, the teeth immediately clog and it loses grip. On the other hand, the UM knurled design tends to be self-clearing when it slips. My Maker Flex doesn't tend to clog my hobbed bolt when it slips so I think a hobbed brass bolt works better than the UM knurling. I found this discussion on the UM Google group about the UM2 stepper. Apparently UM shipped it with a 400 step (0.9 degree) motor: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/ultimaker/qCBoH9TX6z4 Joergen's link to an aftermarket replacement still works: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10846#reviews So it might be a U.S. sourced 400 step alternative to the motor you used, Diego (which is spec'ed as 1.8 degrees / 200 steps). On the other hand, I hope a 400 step motor can be driven by my old UMO hardware, requiring only a Marlin configuration change and re-build perhaps. Factory UM2 parts (like the knurled sleeve that I'll need) are also available here in the U.S.: https://fbrc8.com/search?q=um2+feeder I might also make a UMO adapter plate for this design and use the UMO gearing, which also affords me a manual method of advancing filament via the UMO "big wheel" (large gear). It would be easier to make the mods, if I had a .stp or .igs file, however, which my Geomagic 3D modelling software can read. (It can't read the latest Solidworks format). Lathe-turning a drive shaft that's 5mm on the end to replace the original UMO drive bolt/stud is not problem for me. The 5mm end would then drive the UM2 knurled sleeve. Other UMO modders might like to retain the UMO feeder stepper too.
Commented on Ninjaflex Geared Ultimaker 2 Feeder almost 2 years ago
Thanks for your prompt reply and information, Diego. Also thanks for the offer of the Ninjaflex wheels. I'd like to offer you something in trade for them, however. They will save me the trouble of a tricky print with my UMO feeder! Yes--I noticed that gap you filled with a small piece of Bowden tube and wondered about it. I also pondered the gap between the knurled sleeve and the Ninjaflex wheels. I guess the gap between these two feeder "stages" is of no concern, because the Ninjaflex wheels pull the filament away from the knurled sleeve and keep it from kinking in the gap. I sent you an email via the Youmagine site. Please let me know if that email doesn't work for you. Best, -Cal
Commented on Ninjaflex Geared Ultimaker 2 Feeder almost 2 years ago
I'd like to install this feeder on my UMO. I assume that this feeder works well for feeding flexible filament. I think I can print the flex gears in Ninjaflex on my UMO, but I'll have to print them by "chasing" the Ninjaflex down my Bowden tube with some nice and stiff PLA (and no retraction, of course). According to Cura,, a single flex gear requires only 16 cm of filament. My Bowden tube is much longer than 16 cm so it should work. (At least this method has worked for me with small Maker Flex (TPE) printed parts, but Maker Flex parts have a too much of a slippery surface to work well for a drive gear, I think). I will need to buy a UM2 stepper motor, because I've heard the UMO motor does not have sufficient step resolution for a direct drive feeder setup. I'd like to find a stepper motor with a longer shaft so I can mount a hand wheel on the end of it too. I will also need to buy a UM2 feed pressure bearing and knurled sleeve and setscrew. I think the spring from my UMO will work. The parts list here calls for a 8x5x3mm Metal Bearing but 8x5x3mm doesn't make sense. Can someone please confirm that the bearing is actually 8x16x5mm? According to the UM2 BOM on GItHub,, it is a 1021_Ball_Bearing_688-2RS: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2 and it is 8x16x5mm https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1021_Ball_Bearing_688-2RS_(x1)/B1021-Z1P-A.PDF A 8x16x5mm bearing should fit the bearing yoke and arm parts here. Thanks for the help and I'll upload any additional parts that I design for a UMO application.
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