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Alternate iRoberti feeder body for 1.75mm filament
Feeder body for 1.75mm filament using PC4-M6 push fitting3D printer parts and enhancements
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This is an alternate body for use with iRoberti's excellent feeder. The main priority was to be able to fit a PC4-M6 tube push fitting and MK8 or E3D hobb-goblin drive wheel.
The body has been completely remodelled with the original body as an outline. It still uses the original yoke, latch and arm.
I have printed around 100 hours with an MK8 drive wheel and another 100 hours with E3D hobb goblin and it has performed solidly.
Apart from the aforementioned change in drive wheel and tube fitting the model also feature the following changes as opposed to an original iRoberti feeder.
*The holes for filament has been reduced to 2mm
*The upper part has been extended so that the throat is a somewhat close fit around the drive wheel and ball bearing (otherwise the filament can bend and start to feed in a loop).
*A cable retention clip has been integrated into the design.
*Holes (not the M3 bolt holes) for arm and latch has been reduces slightly to improve the fit.
*Thickness has been increased 10mm so that the feeder can be mounted with the arm facing out without it catching the side of the printer.
*All four screws are the same length and no washers are needed.
*The throat has been shifted sideways to line up about right with the drive wheel.
I have included two versions of the body as well as STEP files for anyone who wants to make modifications. One body can fit the cable retention clip, the other doesn't.
You will need the following apart from the files included in this design:
*Latch and arm from the original listing (see link).
*Yoke from the original listing. I use the 38mm version which works fine.
*A MK8 or E3D hobb-goblin drive wheel. I have honestly noticed very little difference between the two, except for the price.
*One PC4-M6 4.3mm push fitting.
*Four M3 30mm screws.
A final note. The grub screw on the hobb-goblin is quite long. Mine was such a tight fit with the extended upper body that it caught. I had to rotate the motor back and forth a few times to wear a dent in the plastic. A shorter grub screw or taking off a bit of the plastic with a knife will also work of course.
Materials and methods
I printed mine in ABS with 30% infill for extra strength. PLA will also work perfectly. Supports are required and can be a bit tricky to remove. Especially the M6 thread requires a thin knife to clean up properly.
Be sure to get all residues of support out of the throat to enable the PTFE to be installed properly.
Please double check orientation and mirror to fit your needs.
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