Removing the bowden tube and putting the extruder directly on the head.<br>This is not just for fun, but to make printing of flexible filament possible (Filaflex, Ninjaflex for example but it can apply to any filaments that don't like long bowdens).<br>The final print result is astonishing, no underextrusion whatsoever and perfect layer adhesion.<br><br>Printing at 25mm/min gives good results. Faster than that makes the heavy head a bit shaky and degrades print quality.<br>For my setup I have to increase flow in Cura or in the machine to 140% (due to the smaller diameter at the teeth of my hobbed screw)<br><br>See it working:<br><a href="http://youtu.be/EIO-JXnnoNc" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://youtu.be/EIO-JXnnoNc</a><br><br>It is derived from the famous "Greg's-Wade's-Taylor's-Someone's extruder" and uses the original stepper from the Ultimaker.<br><br>The whole thing is mounted on top of the moving head and does not need to disconnect the sensor or the heater. I still haven't found a place to mount the small ADC board so I leave it hanging from its wires at the moment.<br><br>All you will need is a hobbed bar / bolt (I use the excellent Hyena from"
Arcol.hu" but any 8mm hobbed/knurled bolt with thread on both sides will do just fine) and 3x 608 bearings (skateboards/inlines). You ill also need a
small bit of bowden tube (I used a 4x6 aluminum tube, approx 70mm
long so it doesn't need to be flexible)<br>And of course some assorted M3 and M4 bolts + 2 springs. The rest is printed.<br>The running direction of the motor should be reversed. For me this is done by a custom crossover XLR cable as I use XLR connectors to disconnect the motor. So, no extra cable= forward, normal Ultimaker extrusion and with the extra cable (provides the needed extra length)= reversed direction. Or you can just cut the cables and add a screw terminal and swap the cables in each pair.<br><br>I provide the main body with integrated print support that will save you a bunch of filament and printing time.<br>This works pretty good now but feel free to improve, comment and share. I include the source files (Solidworks 2012). I know they look quite ugly but it's hard to make a clean source when you don't know how it's going to look like at the end.<br>Some STL files are not correctly oriented yet, so take an extra look before printing!<br><br>This modification is not hard to install and is fully reversible (no changes done on the original parts). It takes approx 15-20min to swap between direct and original extruder.
Creative Commons Attribution Share Alike