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E3Dv6 printhead mount for Ultimaker Original
Put an E3Dv6 hotend (3mm Bowden version) into your Ultimaker Original with this mount!3D printer parts and enhancements
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This is a mount for putting the E3Dv6 hotend (3mm Bowden version) into an Ultimaker Original.
I strongly recommend you buy the full kit: http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/v6-3mm-Bowden
You will need most of the parts (such as the blue fanduct, screws and so on). Note that you can ask E3D to swap out the 12V cartridge for a 24V model, depending on your needs. DO NOT use the 12V standard cartridge from the kit with the UM original (19V), as this would run at a much higher power than intended!
This mount may fit other printers, as long as they use the same x-y gantry (6mm gantry shafts, with the Y-shaft 18mm higher than the X-shaft. See UM Original source files for details and bearings used.
This design is a derivate of my E3Dv5 hotend mount, which was a derivate of Nick Foley's "E3Dv5 integrated printhead", published on Thingiverse.com.
My goal with this mount is:
1. Get solid, reliable performance
2. Optimize size & weight for maximum movement speed & maximum build size
3. Make it print reliably and without problems
- Easy to assemble using only two main parts
- Strong construction using self-tapping screws
- lightweight and (hopefully) aesthetic design
- Built-in cable management for clean and tidy look
I'm re-using Nick's fanduct, so you will need to get it from his design:
Instructions (short version, PDF documentation coming soon):
- Print every part the way it comes in the STL. No support needed, but use Brim.
- Do not scale (!)
- Use a 0.4mm diameter nozzle (such as the Ultimaker standard nozzle)
- Print with 0.1mm layer height, 0.8mm wall thickness (2 passes) and 100% infill
Use a material with very strong layer bonding and high temperature resistance. I strongly recommend using Colorfabb XT or a similar PET-G filament.
More details on the PDF documentation
V1.0.1 - july 8th, 2014
- Added PDF documentation (still work in progress, but the most important parts are there)
- Slightly modified the fanduct mount (opened wiring guides, made support thinner)
V1.0 - july 7th, 2014
- Finished design of main parts
- Hotend mount fits 100% snug for my prints
- Complete the PDF documentation
- Add pictures
- Add spacer ring to fix Bowden tube fitting in place (will not change existing parts!)
- Add fixture for TC amp board (will not change existing parts!)
Please do not hesitate to leave a comment if you have any wishes or problems with this design! I'm happy to help and improve it whenever I can!
Materials and methods
See PDF documentation
Issues are used to track todos, bugs or requests. To get started, you could create an issue.
The official heated bed (for the ultimaker original) came with an pcb which is called the "HeaterBoard". This little board is powered by an 24V power supply. It is connected to the Heated Bed MOSFET on the Ultimaker Aurdino shield and the an Temperature Input.
On the other side it has an interface for an PT100 sensor and a 24V heating element.
Normally this is used for the "heated bed upgrade", but I wonder if one could also hook up the E3D instead of the heated bed. I think there shouldn't be much difference and this would solve all the volting problems for the E3D on the Ultimaker Original. Given that you have the PT100 sensor E3D sells.
Will send you an eMail ;)
Not sure what you mean with the heated bed.. :P
btw you can contact me by mail if you want to talk more on whatsapp or something: email@example.com
Can make an improved version tomorrow without much hassle..
Perfect! Thank you - I would love to print it and give you some feedback once the design is ready. Thanks!
Thank you for your comprehensive answer! I will therefore sand the new print once it is ready (2,5 hours left :D). - thank you for the advice.
I never printed anything else than PLA until now, but a friend of mine asked me to do some designs/prints for his motorcycle (where the engine is relatively near, so a high melting/glass temperature is very important). I use the extrudr ABS and wraping is very little to none if your printbed is @ 100°C and if you use the PVA glue stick). It smells ya, but not as much as I expected :)
But i will give colorfabb XT a try next time! Thanks.
Btw: Have you ever thought of using the heated-bed pcb for the E3D instead of the heated bed? I will give it a try since i have two of them (pcbs).
Oh, another thing. I can make an improved version with little effort now since I have upgraded my mCAD to SpaceClaim (from Sketchup) and have become a bit more proficient over the years. Can make an improved version tomorrow without much hassle..
By the way, it's better to sand the holes so that the bearings fit inside with very little force (but still without noticeable play) and then glue them in place. Instead of glueing, you can use a soldering iron (lowest possible temperature setting) to melt the hole's edges a little and prevent the bearings from moving.
I used that rib because I thought it would give the mount more stability, and I didn't want to add too much complexity to it.
I had to sand the holes for the bearings to fit. If you have to press them hard, you need to sand or it will break. If it doesn't break right away, it probably will a few hours or days later.
A perfect fit is impossible to do since every printer and every material and every person will produce different results. The design could be improved a lot. Note that this thing is now almost 4 years old - by now I would do many things differently...
By the way, I personally wouldn't use ABS since it is prone to having bad layer adhesion. I have never gotten a usable ABS print out of my printer. Ever. It stinks, it's difficult to print with, it warps like crazy, and it's really not strong at all. I would use Colorfabb XT with 100% infill and only 2 wall passes. I have never been able to break any part made like that without using overly excessive force (large hammer).
- Printed on:
- ultimaker original
- perfect fit, but the thing cracked while pushing in the bushings - unfortunately. bad ABS layer adhesion - most probably my fault.
- Are the original bearings/bushings press fitting ones? If not, it would help to make the hole larger anywhere expect where the strengthening ring is.
I reprinted it in ABS now (for the third time :D) - @ 100°C bed, brim and 250°C nozzle. Unfortunately the thing cracked while pressing in the lower bushing. Trying it @ 255°C at the moment, lets see if that helps.
Btw: I really like the way you designed the support structures, nice! Thank you!
My only concern is the groovemount since it is not on the hotend all the way around
(there is e.g. a rib a bit higher than the one you used - is there a reason why you omited that one?
I don't know yet, hope they arrive tomorrow (order new ones) - will keep you informed! :)
Looks very nice flo!
How did the bushings fit?
- Printed on:
- ultimaker original
- Perfect fit
- Take a look at the PDF for peerfect settings and don't forget the brim!
Well, I've never gotten around to actually hook the E3D up to my printer.
The wiring is actually the same as for most other printers.
As to 19V / 24V: I'm using 12V fans on the UMO 19V PSU with no problems. It's not pretty, but as long as it works...
I have a second UMO build which has the E3D with this mount hooked up to it, but it's been in an unfinished state for a long time now. I redesigned the Z-stage and had some collision problems that need work to fix - and I never got around to do it. Maybe some time... when I have time... You know how it goes.
Currently going through a difficult job situation and have a lot of other stuff on my radar, so I can't promise anything :(
Have you ever finished the electronics part? :)
I ordered an E3D v6 and it will arrive tomorrow, I think i will use your mount.
Unfortunately your PDF is missing the electronics chapter (I will use the original heating block at first, hence I am not in a hurry, but I would be interested how you solved the 19V/24V dilemma ;D)