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feeder for "Ultimaker 2 Rail System"

reinforced version of my previous feeder, addapted for use with the "Ultimaker2 Rail System".

3D printer parts and enhancements

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After hundreds of printing hours on my feeder the hook got a little loose, so I decided not just to replace it but also to strengthen it a little. Since using the U2RS means you don't have the size restrictions you would have at the backplate, I added a few millimeters here and there, and merged the body with a mounting plate. Also modified the hook shape a little to have more surface area touching the main arm.

My advice is to use any material you like (PLA, XT, ABS), but to use PLA for the body. If you have some wear on the body you might get some particles in your bowden/heater, you don't want ABS/XT in there when printing at lower PLA temperatures.

Search for "U2RS" to find other parts of the rail system.
printed - layer 0,1 - Fill 100% - speed 35mm/s
you need to move the knurled wheel a little towards the motor, just so much the fillament will be nice in the middle of it.

ultimaker2 rail system ;

my original feeder ;

Which was mostly based on the "mother of all UM2 feeders" ;
edit 1/2015 ; Body update, added a little mass just around the bearing wheel, to have a bit more guidance for the fillament while using flxible fillament. Just did the UM extrusion test succesfully at 230 celsius to 8,5 mm3/s using (semi)flexible Makerpoint MP flex 45. Take this one when you want to use this feeder, probably no need to upgrade for most people using the V1.

Materials and methods

for bolts, have a look at the picture with the color rings;

all M3 + M3 locknuts:
green; original motor bolts from your UM2
pink; M3 x 30 (longer is no problem)
yellow; m3 x 25mm, longer is no problem (small head, needs to be able to sink into the bearing arm.

The bolt holding the spring is a m3 x 50mm (minimal) with a hex shaped head. If you can't find one with a hex shape make one by taking another bolt and put a hex nut on it against the head, fix with loctite. Use a locknut to hold the spring (inside the printed knob), to avoid unwanted change of pressure.

the Blue bolts are M4 x 20 (or longer) I used butterfly nuts, but there's no real need for it.

The spring and bearing are from the original UM2 feeder.



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C78449736028ef7fc9853ec7b242beae?default=blank&size=40bibibobobubu commented ago
B337f37d2f66ac45c5c23f8d23a97ffa?default=blank&size=40sipango commented ago

i am sorry perhaps i didnt define the part i am after perhaps i should have sayed BRACKET ATTACHÄ°NG THE FEEDER TO THE BACK PLATE

because i coudnt find anything in the archive what will the proper name for it ?can you help me,thank you

B337f37d2f66ac45c5c23f8d23a97ffa?default=blank&size=40sipango commented ago

İ could not finde the printıng file to the winkle part wich attaches the feeder to the back plate

Mini dsc 0153Casey added this to the Ultimaker Accessories collection ago
320ebefd5b3c8069a750dc6accd414fe?default=blank&size=40dr_isch added this to the um2_parts collection ago
410e40bd9fccc440fa4118689a8d6853?default=blank&size=40stevetfidalgo added this to the Cool Stuff collection ago
Mini logo novi tekst bezbcgrMarko Salopek added this to the Ultimaker Upgrades/Mods collection ago
30fbe88468deb3ea1a8e78af2cdb843f?default=blank&size=40erikgj added this to the UM2 Upgrades collection ago
Mini ulti2arjanUltiArjan published this design ago