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Makerfarm direct drive extruder

This is my conversion of a Makerfarm i3v to a direct drive extruder with an e3d v5 hot end (1.75mm). This lowers the weight and number of printed parts on the x-carriage. Compatible with groovemount hotends.

3D printer parts and enhancements

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Description

I suggest printing at 0.3mm layer height with 3 perimeters at 25% infill in either ABS, nylon, or PET for temp resistance. Extruder parts shown in images are all printed in Colorfabb XT.

This direct drive extruder conversion was made to use hardware that came with the original extruder (Greg’s hinged accessible extruder) in the 8” i3 kit while reducing weight and complexity. The only part purchased separately was an mk8 drive gear (http://reprap.me/extruder/mk8.html). I made it to fit the E3D v5 hotend but it should fit the v6 as well. I can’t speak personally to pairing it with a jhead but it mounts to the x-carriage via a groovemount plate so it should work the same. I have also included a version without the backstop (this presses against the carriage to decrease stress on the extruder when disengaging the idler). I also remixed the design of the cooling duct (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-30mm-fan-duct) for the E3D heat break and mounted it to blow outwards. This orientation prevents blowing air across the part when printing ABS, nylon, or other materials with a propensity to warp. The cooling duct for the 50mm blower can be found here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/50mm-blower-for-makerfarm-direct-drive-extruder  

Assembly instructions:

1.      Using a 3mm drill bit or screwdriver, remove material from holes on idler.

2.      Use a 2mm or slightly larger drill bit to clean out filament guide hole in extruder.

3.      Place M4 nut into nut trap on short side of the extruder base before attaching NEMA 17 stepper motor with (4) M3x10mm socket head cap screws.

4.      Insert dowel pin through 608 bearing and press into channel on idler. It may be necessary to use a pair of pliers.

5.      Place M3 nuts into nut traps on back of idler. The fit will be tight so you may have to use a pair of plyers.

6.      Place M3 nut into nut trap on backside of extruder motor mount and attach idler to extruder body with M3x30mm.

7.      In order, place M3 washer, spring, followed by another M3 washer onto M3x50mm screw. Insert end of screw into slot on front of extruder and thread screw into M3 nut from step 5.

8.      Repeat step 7 for second M3x50mm screw.

9.      Insert end of aluminum heat break into hole on bottom of extruder and slide groovemount plate onto heat break.

10.  Install entire assembly onto x-carriage using 2 M4x15mm screws and nuts using the two holes on horizontal portion of x-carriage.

Materials and methods

-mk8 drive gear

-(2) M4x15 socket head cap screws

-(2) M4x15 nuts

-(2) M3x50 socket head cap screws

-(4) M3x10 socket head cap screws

-(1) M3x30 socket head cap screw

-(3) M3 nuts

-(4) M3 washers

-(1) 608 bearing and dowel pin

-(2) springs.

Other than the mk8 drive gear, all of the hardware is included with the makerfarm i3v kit. However, the M4 screws that ship with the makerfarm kit are too long (these are the screws used to secure the extruder to the x-carriage). These can either be cut shorter or preferably 2 M4x15 screws can be used if available.

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Comments

5a888fb203ab5a607bd7d94f16dfc3ec?default=blank&size=40medoix added this to the Prusa i3v collection ago
Mini imageRflynn added this to the 3D printers collection ago
541f0fad894b100405a894e76ca93d54?default=blank&size=40Juanfly commented ago

Maybe I can reuse the old one?

541f0fad894b100405a894e76ca93d54?default=blank&size=40Juanfly commented ago

is the idler the same that comes with the gregs hinged on the i3v?

2f032cc44e24f394da78ccf2f91e5123?default=blank&size=40dashhunter added this to the My collection collection ago
86ec036a79074c8fd95c66f5a93c8c25?default=blank&size=40ronijoeman published this design ago