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Mikes Hot End v2.5
A somewhat minor change to v2 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:305871) so that it fits in my water block (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/triple-water-block) using set screws instead of nuts on the top and bottom3D printer parts and enhancements
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1. Face one end of bar
2. Create a center divot
3. Drill orifice being VERY careful. Go in ~ 2mm, using small steps
4. Use compound cross feed to taper tip; I like 45 degrees, smooth is best. Make sure there is no divot left and the orifice is still clear
5. Part off the tip leaving some extra length
6. Face new end and create a new center divot
7. Measure the length of the nozzle and set tailstock at zero with sharp tip flush with end of nozzle
9. Drill in to about 1.5mm less than the length of the nozzle
10. Use a flat end mill to create an internal edge leaving the center taper
11. File flats at the nozzle end and make sure the nozzle is still clear
This new design has a few more steps but being shorter it is easier to drill through the 4mm hole which is hard on the drill bits.
1. Do a rough cut from stock material
2. Face one end and create a divot with a center (alignment critical)
3. Drill all the way through with the 4mm drill bit. Take your time and use lots of cutting fluid. If the drill bit wobbles at the start it is off-center... try again.
4. Mark the side that started drilling from and flip the part around and face the other end
5. Drill in 5-10mm with the 4.2mm drill bit
6. Tap M5-0.8 being careful with the tap
7. Mount the marked end 5mm into chuck making sure its straight by threading M5 threaded rod into the exposed end and clamping in the tailstock. Once material clamped remove the 5mm threaded rod and tailstock.
8. Turn down the threaded rod until it is 5/16" only leaving threads in the chuck
9. Finally cut the thermal break gap (not sure if necessary but doesn't hurt) with a cut-off tool... don't go too far, do it as close as you can to the chuck
1. Cut the liner tubing a little extra long
2. Put the Nozzle and Barrel together with the liner inside
3. Screw in the push-fit connector into the barrel
4. This should push the nozzle and barrel apart so cut the liner by a little less than the amount of liner that is showing between the nozzle and barrel
5. When put it back together the tightened push-fit connector should create a small gap between the nozzle and barrel
6. Chamfer the ID of the liner that is opposite the nozzle to help filament feed
1. Screw the barrel into the heater block until the thermal break is flush
2. Lightly screw the nozzle in then heat it up to 250C before doing the final tightening
3. Once cool screw the nozzle nut on
4. Put the liner in and tighten the push fit connector onto it (connector may need to be removed when mounting the hot end)
Materials and methods
- 3/8-24 Brass rod (98813A031 $13.04 for 24")
- 3/8-24 Stainless Steel threaded rod (93250A150 $16.19 for 36")
- Thick brass 3/8-24 nuts (92676A455 $5.20 for 10)
- Thin brass 3/8-24 nuts (92174A663 $8.71 per 25)
- 3/8" x 3/4" Aluminum bar stock (89215K483 $37.73 for 36")
- 4mmOD, 2mmID Teflon tubing (5557K32 $1.53/ft)
- 4mm tube to M5 tube fitting (7880T368 $1.65 each)
- 40W 12V ceramic heater (yes you can use a resistor if you really want) buy on ebay or from 3d printer supplier
- axial thermister or thermocouple
- Metal Lathe
- Drill bit #77 (or whatever orifice size you want)
- 4mm cobalt (or carbide) drill bit (29355A64 $3.14 each) get a few
- 4mm sharp tipped drill bit (for brass) (27465A413 $4.56)
- 5/16" drill bit
- 4mm 2 flute end mill (4 flutes is fine) for brass (29605A22 $14.18)
- M5x0.8 tap (for pneumatic fittings) (26475A38 $8.68)
- 3/8-24 tap (for aluminum)
- drill bit for thermister/thermocouple
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