Printrbot Simple Metal Heatbed

Add a heat bed to your Printrbot Simple with off the shelf parts. It is easily removable and doesn't require any permanent changes.

3D printer parts and enhancements

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Description

UPDATE Printrbot has created a kit to add a heat bed to your Simple Metal Here: http://printrbot.com/shop/simple-metal-heated-bed/  you can also buy an aftermarked adhesive one at http://3dpaftermarket.bigcartel.com/product/printrbot-metal-bundle

The stock Printrbot Metal Simple is a fantastic little printer with an
exceptional degree of accuracy for its price, I really wouldn't change a
thing about it. Recently I had to print a few large flat designs and
wanted to try attaching a heat bed to get them perfectly flat.


The ideology of mounting the heat bed on a raised platform design posted
here is that you are able to insulate the moving parts from heat, use
less power and keep a more constant temp - I have no idea how this mod
stacks up against other designs. Your Printrbot Simple Metal can print
PLA super flat, and experiment other filaments like ABS and Nylon. If
you plan to print with high temperature filaments, I recommend printing
these parts in ABS for long term durability.

Instructions:

Print four of these brackets and attach the 6X6 aluminum print bed heatbed and thermistor from http://printrbot.com/ See BOM for details and instructions.

Assemble as shown in photo, mounting holes in STL file are tight but allow for better self tapping into the plastic, you can also insert a nut into the captured space.

Using the aluminum heat bed from printrbot you you won't need to make any changes to your z sensor (I would use caution the first time to make sure you didn't move anything while installing this mod - go through the M212 calibration process).  Once installed you can easily add or remove the bed without making calibration adjustments. Remember to do all of your z height calibration with the heat bed at temperature.
I have included a PDF file that shows you where to plug in the heat bed, thermistor cable, and power supply.
Finally, you will want to send the following code to your machine M211 X150 Y150 Z140 to compensate for the slight decrease in Z travel because of the heat bed thickness then M500 to save and M501 to check your work.


- WARNING - You must replace the laptop style power source and add your
own 12 volt power source with enough amps to run the heated print
surface. An ATX power supply that you would find in an old PC tower is a
really good option.


BOM:


-2 each of the provided stl files


-4 small binder clips 20mm wide



-4 3mm bolts ~10mm long and nuts



-6X6 printrbot heat bed PCB from
http://printrbot.com/shop/6-6-heated-bed/ or
http://3dpaftermarket.bigcartel.com/product/printrbot-metal-bundle (this
one includes thermistor)



-printrbot aluminum print bed 6x6 from
http://printrbot.com/shop/printrbot-aluminum-6x6-build-platform/

-thermistor with cable http://printrbot.com/shop/thermistor-with-cable/

 -ATX power supply or other 12 volt source capable of running the higher
draw of a heat bed.

-"Y" adapter for the ATX power supply from printrbot http://printrbot.com/shop/y-power-adapter/
If you are handy you can make the Y adapter part with the existing
connectors that comes with the ATX power supply and jump the green wire
so the box will power up
http://help.printrbot.com/Guide/Power+Supply+Cabling/16
This video shows you pretty clearly what the connection looks like and
how to connect adapter



-Optional: You may want a box for your ATX power supply, there are lots around.

This one is a spool holder too
http://printrbot.com/shop/power-tower-with-spool-rack/



-Some cable wrap to keep the heat bed and
thermistor wires neat and tidy.

-Finally you may want to insulate the bottom of the heat bed.  I used some metalized bubble wrap designed for insulating duct work, cork could be a good option too, it makes the heat bed much more efficient.

Instructions:

Assemble as shown in photo, mounting holes in STL file are tight but
allow for better self tapping into the plastic, you can also put a nut in the captured nut space.



Using the aluminum heat bed from printrbot you you won't need to make
any changes to your z sensor (I would use caution the first time to make
sure you didn't move anything while installing this mod - go through
the M212 calibration process).

Once installed you can easily add or
remove the bed without making calibration adjustments. Remember to do
all of your z height calibration with the heat bed at temperature.

I have included a PDF file that shows you where to plug in the heat bed,
thermistor cable, and power supply.



I used a pencil to lightly mark all four corners of the mounting brackets so I can easily install and center my heat bed so the Z sensor reads the bed perfectly.  The last spot where it reads the bed is close to the edge and you don't want the sensor to read off the bed.

Finally, you will want to send the following code to your machine M211
X150 Y150 Z140 to compensate for the slight decrease in Z travel because
of the heat bed thickness then M500 to save and M501 to check your
work.

Materials and methods

I wrote the BOM at the bottom of the description, there are formatting issues below.

BOM:

-2 each of the provided stl files

-4 small binder clips 20mm wide

-4 3mm bolts ~10mm long and nuts

-6X6 printrbot heat bed PCB from http://printrbot.com/shop/6-6-heated-bed/ or http://3dpaftermarket.bigcartel.com/product/printrbot-metal-bundle (this one includes thermistor)

-printrbot aluminum print bed 6x6 from http://printrbot.com/shop/printrbot-aluminum-6x6-build-platform/ -thermistor with cable http://printrbot.com/shop/thermistor-with-cable/

-ATX power supply or other 12 volt source capable of running the higher draw of a heat bed.

-"Y" adapter for the ATX power supply from printrbot http://printrbot.com/shop/y-power-adapter/ If you are handy you can make the Y adapter part with the existing connectors that comes with the ATX power supply and jump the green wire so the box will power up http://help.printrbot.com/Guide/Power+Supply+Cabling/16 This video shows you pretty clearly what the connection looks like and how to connect adapter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqF0m7xMMms

-Optional: You may want a box for your ATX power supply, there are lots around. This one is a spool holder too http://printrbot.com/shop/power-tower-with-spool-rack/

-Finally you might want some cable wrap to keep the heat bed and thermistor wires neat and tidy.

Instructions: Assemble as shown in photo, mounting holes in STL file are tight but allow for better self tapping into the plastic, you can also put a nut in the captured nut space.

Using the aluminum heat bed from printrbot you you won't need to make any changes to your z sensor (I would use caution the first time to make sure you didn't move anything while installing this mod - go through the M212 calibration process).

Once installed you can easily add or remove the bed without making calibration adjustments. Remember to do all of your z height calibration with the heat bed at temperature. I have included a PDF file that shows you where to plug in the heat bed, thermistor cable, and power supply.

Finally, you will want to send the following code to your machine M211 X150 Y150 Z140 to compensate for the slight decrease in Z travel because of the heat bed thickness then M500 to save and M501 to check your work.

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Comments

E4486fc0069dc7b9fd921d7d6deb1538?default=blank&size=40anderkh commented ago

Do you have a recommendation for a new source of heated bed? The ones listed in the article are no longer available.

9a35b3d60293bf79b34f5a4b8b50be4c?default=blank&size=40besser435 added this to the Printrbot Upgrades collection ago
9a35b3d60293bf79b34f5a4b8b50be4c?default=blank&size=40besser435 added this to the Things to Make collection ago
Mini shop photoCameron Watt published this design ago