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The Vornaments!
My homage to traditional glass sphere ornaments
For your home
Creative Commons Attribution Share Alike
Commercial use is allowed, you must attribute the creator, you may remix this work and the remixed work should be made available under this license.
Description
It could be said that they represent the inescapable future of all glass ornaments - with a deconstructed surface based on a [Voronoi](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voronoi_diagram) tessellation. Or maybe, they just represent digital complexity for complexity's sake. Either way, they look awesome.
Presented here is a set of 7, which vary in size, detail, and energy of deconstruction.
*The best way to hang them is with a traditional ornament topper, or, as shown here, with my [3D printed version](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:189367).*
Ornament numbering (1-7) roughly correlates with difficulty of printing. Regardless, getting the first layer stuck to the build platform, and printing with a thick brim, are essential. Some of the ornaments have very aggressive overhangs, and having your cooling and print temperature dialed in is essential.
The parts are represented as a solid (ie - filled) because I was getting the best results by letting the slicer create the shell surface. You can print them "without a bottom" in Cura and get a print with a hole in it for hanging, though I found it easier+stronger+faster to print them with uniform 2mm walls all-around, 0% infill, and drill out the hole for hanging afterwards.
Presented here is a set of 7, which vary in size, detail, and energy of deconstruction.
*The best way to hang them is with a traditional ornament topper, or, as shown here, with my [3D printed version](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:189367).*
Ornament numbering (1-7) roughly correlates with difficulty of printing. Regardless, getting the first layer stuck to the build platform, and printing with a thick brim, are essential. Some of the ornaments have very aggressive overhangs, and having your cooling and print temperature dialed in is essential.
The parts are represented as a solid (ie - filled) because I was getting the best results by letting the slicer create the shell surface. You can print them "without a bottom" in Cura and get a print with a hole in it for hanging, though I found it easier+stronger+faster to print them with uniform 2mm walls all-around, 0% infill, and drill out the hole for hanging afterwards.
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