About this Project

A celebration of the the Ultimaker 2. Completely recreated from it's open source CAD files, modified to be built with aluminum extrusions and 3D printed parts.

This project began as a fun way to learn AutoDesk Fusion 360. I started by importing the entire Solidworks CAD file into a new Fusion 360 project, dropped the frame (walls) from the printer, built 20x20 Misumi aluminum extrusions to wrap the printer guts and then worked to build brackets to support all the parts that previously attached to the frame.  

I've been printing nonstop on this new printer with the same precision and quality as my real UM2. In fact, I can use the same GCODE in either machine with identical results.  

Bill of Materials

This list provides 99% of the parts you'll need.  https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oL7RYvvKJJkxDS52M6GQemwey3ny0b3jYZnxLergKKQ/edit?usp=sharing

Build Instructions

A supplement to the official UM2 assembly guide to address instructions specific to this printer.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1iZN1Qa6s9Yto3foaHEdEPrx-5QusVKVUGyTJ6U6o7BY/edit?usp=sharing 

All parts were printed in PLA, in Cura, using 3 shells w/20% infill.  

I am running both the official and aluminum extrusion Ultimaker's  with 1.75mm filament. Ultimately it'll be up to you to decide what filament gauge you want to use. Often it comes down to what filament you already have in bulk. :-)   For that reason, I haven't included the parts to complete the hotend/extruder in the BOM. If you choose to go with the default 3mm setup, you can acquire the parts thru one the the sellers in the BOM. If you choose to use 1.75, I have included some additional parts to print and more info in the build instructions.  In either case, the knurled drive gear in the BOM will work for both filament sizes.  

Buying Parts  

The prices in the BOM are most likely out of date. Use the links in the BOM to find the parts. I had good experiences with all of the sellers I dealt with and found the parts to be close-to if not identical to official parts. This includes the 1.75mm version of the UM2 nozzle/heatblock.  

The BOM has a breakdown to buy all the parts to build the Z-axis platform/heated bed _or_ to buy the official UM2 heated bed kit (which is actually intended for the UMO+). The cost of getting the kit is only $15 more when you calculate the PSU and lead screw Z-axis motor. There's also a small electronics board which acts as a relay for powering the heaterboard with the 24PSU and outputing 19V for the UMO. It's not needed, but an added bonus for a future project. :-) The kit is going to be easier... but it depends on how patient and adventurous you are.  

The Floor of the Printer  

My printer is using 1/4" acrylic that I bought from Lowes and cut on a 20x12 laser cutter. I sanded the underside to create a frosted look. I would have cut it as a single piece but the laser cutter was just a tad too small. This is why it's 2 pieces joined with 3D printed connectors and screws. I have included the CorelDraw file and the floor connectors.