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Ultimaker Original Plus - Dual Extrusion - Magnetic Head Changer
This is my design based on the original idea by Foehnsturm. This is for Ultimaker Original Plus.3D printer parts and enhancements
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New STLs added:
- MHC - Wiper Beta1
Very little documentation but I wanted to share the beta since it's working quite ok but right I'm going to be very busy to document this properly and finish it. It uses:
x1 Axis 5mm for Motor Emax GT3520. Basically a 5mm shaft.
x2 5mm id bearings, 16mm od, 5mm width. Used this because it's what I had around.
I'll try to upload some images of it assembled.
To make it work it need's for the bed to lower to z18/z19 then a wipe movement coded and then return to the current_z. So far the script it's done in Simplify3D toolchange, but I need to tune it. Also after the head arrives to z18/19 the script must stop to avoid collisions, I do this by splitting the job in 2.
New STLs added:
- Mhc V3 Head Part2
- Mhc V3 Fan Head Holder
- Mhc V3 Fan Cap
- Mhc V3 Clamp
This new parts, like the old ones, will need to get some 'drill' on the Head Part2 and Fan Head Holder. The side holes of the Fan Head Holder that connect to the Fan Cap I would suggest that before using them you get a screwdriver (electrical one I use) and pre-mark the holes with a m3 screw. This way it's much easier to get the fancap-fanheadholder ready.
This version I printed it on Carbonfil because it can reach 85C. Several prints and infrared camera shots show that it can hold the heat of the head perfectly. Specially since now, on the fan cap holder there's room to screw a 5V 25x25 fan, this way the peek it's always nice and cold. On my tests the air didn't affect the head and I was able to print at 260C without problems.
This is my design based on the original idea by Foehnsturm.
This is for Ultimaker Original Plus.
Read the PDF for assembly instructions and tips. I documented as much as possible but I might have miss something.
Note: Print the Clamp at 26% infill to it's really solid. Clean the supports and use a metal clamp to put the bearings inside. It's a tight fit to avoid any future movement.
Materials and methods
- x6 M3 Studding bolts 70mm long at least
The important area with screw it’s the end
-x8 M3 15mm
For the hangar bay assembly. You could use glue too I suppose...
- x4 40x40x10 Fans 24V
Connect them in parallel to the FAN PWM - Check mA so it’s never higher than 400-500mA
- An Ultimaker Original Plus
On UMO (not plus) you should design an area to hold the Thermocouple Transmitter
- M3 TAP
To process the Aluminium laser cut part for the m3 holes. You could also use m3 screws to make the ‘screw’ but I don’t recommend that.
- M3 Drill and M10 Drill
To process some 3D printed parts. 10mm drill isn’t a must, you can just clean the hole of the fan cap by hand, but I prefer a clean 10mm hole.
- Needle Nails To clean up some of the magnet holder holes.
- x6 4,4mm dia springs
5mm springs should work too. Also you can use pen springs can work. I used 3 pens and did cut the springs in half. This works, but the spring will end up going through the washers or the wood and will make alignment a real pain.
- x12 m3 Washers
To isolate the springs so they don’t go through the wood/printed part
- x12 10.0 x 5.5 x 2.0 mm N45SH
The ‘SH’ grade means it won’t loose any strength unless it reach 150C. Each has 1kilo strength. Never use N50 or higher, they will lose strength at 60C. Better safe than sorry.
- Araldite Crystal
That’s what I used. You can google for glue’s for neodymium magnets and use the one you prefer. Read all the safety instructions and info before using it.
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