Jonathan Bischof

Not sure what you mean with the heated bed.. :P btw you can contact me by mail if you want to talk more on whatsapp or something: jonnybischof@gmail.com

Oh, another thing. I can make an improved version with little effort now since I have upgraded my mCAD to SpaceClaim (from Sketchup) and have become a bit more proficient over the years. Can make an improved version tomorrow without much hassle..

By the way, it's better to sand the holes so that the bearings fit inside with very little force (but still without noticeable play) and then glue them in place. Instead of glueing, you can use a soldering iron (lowest possible temperature setting) to melt the hole's edges a little and prevent the bearings from moving.

I used that rib because I thought it would give the mount more stability, and I didn't want to add too much complexity to it. I had to sand the holes for the bearings to fit. If you have to press them hard, you need to sand or it will break. If it doesn't break right away, it probably will a few hours or days later. A perfect fit is impossible to do since every printer and every material and every person will produce different results. The design could be improved a lot. Note that this thing is now almost 4 years old - by now I would do many things differently... By the way, I personally wouldn't use ABS since it is prone to having bad layer adhesion. I have never gotten a usable ABS print out of my printer. Ever. It stinks, it's difficult to print with, it warps like crazy, and it's really not strong at all. I would use Colorfabb XT with 100% infill and only 2 wall passes. I have never been able to break any part made like that without using overly excessive force (large hammer).

Looks very nice flo! How did the bushings fit?

Hi Flo, Well, I've never gotten around to actually hook the E3D up to my printer. The wiring is actually the same as for most other printers. As to 19V / 24V: I'm using 12V fans on the UMO 19V PSU with no problems. It's not pretty, but as long as it works... I have a second UMO build which has the E3D with this mount hooked up to it, but it's been in an unfinished state for a long time now. I redesigned the Z-stage and had some collision problems that need work to fix - and I never got around to do it. Maybe some time... when I have time... You know how it goes. Currently going through a difficult job situation and have a lot of other stuff on my radar, so I can't promise anything :( Best regards, Jonny

I'm swamped at the moment. Plus I won't be needing to build any of them myself in the near future (v2 works fine for me) so it could take some time, sorry :( You could look into version 2, which should work fine as long as you read the whole description and make sure your setup matches with the version 2 requirements.

The problem with the design as it is, is that the "positive" wire coming from the heated bed isn't actually positive anymore as soon as the heated bed is switched on. I didn't see that, but it renders the whole thing completely useless because there is no more gate voltage for the mosfet to work with. I suppose that, what actually happens, is that the mosfet gets only partially switched on, up to a point where it's resistance is around the same as the heated bed (instead of almost zero) which leaves half of the heated bed voltage on the bed, and half on the mosfet. The problem is, it also leaves half of the power on the mosfet which blows it pretty much instantly... I know, it's not "half" but somewhere in that region. In any case, it won't work.

Hi Peter, Dang it, you're right. I didn't see that... I need to think this over. Your workaround is fine, but needing another wire isn't what I wanted. Sure that can be done better... I thought I used the same terminal blocks, maybe I accidentally picked the wrong 3D model o.O Thanks for pointing that out, and sorry for the inconvenience!

Hi koyashi, I don't know about the ANET A8 (or any Prusa i3) in detail, but it should work without any problems as long as you get the right components for the right voltages. You can also use two of these in parallel with the same external power supply because they are isolated and should not interfere with each other. Best regards, Jonny

Update 2 (where did the edit button go?) Actually I found that it isn't that difficult to make a good version using an optocoupler. The new design has 2 components more than before, but is much better due to the complete isolation of the two power supplies. Soldering is a little bit trickier, but really just a bit. If you can do V2, you can also do V3... BOM consists of 3 "building blocks" depending on your voltages, but that should be manageable. It'll take me some time to make the 3D files for V3, so stay tuned ;)