As advertised, fun model to build; a lot of work, though, lots of fine detail and tight tolerances. Holds some memories for me, though, as a teen I had the pleasure of driving one of these: a machine shop owner had just restored it and made the mistake of telling me I could drive it if I could start it! He was dumbfounded when I retarded the spark and flicked the ignition switch, and quite relieved when I brought it back in one piece. I'm not sure what I'll do with it now I've built it but it does bring that memory back, so thanks Ed!
Should anyone else be so ignorant as to not understand any language beside English, I took the time to muddle through a rough translation. Ed, (or anyone else) feel free to correct it and/or include it with other models:
Part Name Translation
Opbouw - bed
Romp - body
Zijplanken - stake sides
Band - tire
Bank - seat
Chassis - chassis !!
Dak - roof
DB kast - glove box
Ford - Ford logo
Gas - floor pedals
Handrem - hand levers
Koffer_groot - toolbox
Koffer_kl - toolbox
Mat - mat
Oliekan - oil can
Olielamp - oil lamp
Radiator - radiator!!
Radiator_dop - radiator cap
Radiator_V - radiator front
Sier_dop - hub cap
SpatbordA - Rear fenders
SpatbordV - Front fenders-running boards
Spiegel - mirror
Stuur - steering wheel
Toeter - horn
Velg - wheel or rim
Voorlampen - headlight
Voorruit - windshield
Zwengel - crank
Treeplank - footboards
I found it easiest to use 1.5mm brass rod for the axles, but then I already had some rod and a drill bit that size. 2mm would work as well or better.
Feedback:
Had a bit of trouble with the windshield; I could not figure out a good way to hold it upright while the glue dried. I thought I'd finally figured it, let it dry overnight, and it leaned back about 15deg. I just let it stay, rather than break it and try again. Were I a modeler I'd put some pins on the windshield and some sockets in the body.
Aside from all that, a beautiful model, a fun project, and I thank you very much!
A lovely model. My better half wanted a dragon made with "irridescent" filament, I looked on Amazon and found this "ttyt3d" "shine true fast color change multicolored PLA" and she said yes, that's it. Printed with my standard settings, .4nozzle, .2layer, 205/65c no support and it came out great except that the default size didn't use enough filament; I wanted it to use all the pretty colors! So I printed it at 150% scale and it came out perfect, just had a single string between the wingtips, 3d printing doesn't get much better than that. We were both quite happy with the result, thank you Louise! I can't take credit for the long green neck that just turned gold as it turned into a head, just a happy accident; one would have to start the 150% print in the middle of the copper color to duplicate it, but that wouldn't be easy--what comes out of the printer is a different color than what goes in!
OK, got the light done. I printed the light with zero infill, and I used Slic3r's "cut" function to cut it into two parts @ 14mm so I could put a 6mm blue LED inside. I broke off the delicate post and drilled two 1mm holes for the leads and enlarged the hole for the light mount, then just put it together with DuPont wires. A printed dual-AAA battery holder and a 220ohm resistor finished it off; this resulted in a fairly bright light, the blue is still visible when it's in direct sunlight, but it's still burning a week later and hasn't diminished noticeably so I guess I won't put a bigger resistor in. Oddly enough, when I tried to get a good picture, I could not get my cell 'phone to capture the blue color, it just looks white! So you'll just have to use your imagination (or make your own, of course, that's why we're here).
I was once a top VW mechanic, they used to give me the fuel-injection problems because I could fix them without complaining. IMHO the "bug" was the best commuter vehicle ever designed. Any chance of a '67 model in a 1/32 scale? I always loved the "plumber's nightmare" bumpers.
I now have a cute little TARDIS full of drawers. I'm not quite happy with the light on top; ideally I'll put a blue LED up there with a battery holder in the dead space below the roof.
Feedback:
On the pro side, I don't know anyone else with this classy a chest of drawers! It printed OK, but if I had to do it again I'd use supports on the main box. The entire back wall looks stringy, and the side walls had drooping strings on the long bars. But who looks at the back wall anyway, and I just cut the strings off the sides--they were of course on the back of the bars. No printing issues with the doors or the drawers; the Chiron is finally producing nice prints consistently due to a direct-drive conversion and some massive electronics cooling improvements. Only took me a year and a half to get there! I have a complaint, though: Neither I nor my better half have figured out what to put in it!
