BEAUTIFUL MOUNT FOR THE ANKER 7 PORT USB HUB

Maker/DIY

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Attribution

https://www.anker.com/de/products/variant/7port-usb-hub-30/A7515311

Description

MOUNT YOUR ANKER USB HUB WHERESOWEVER MAY UPSIDE DOWN AND

OPTIMIZE THE WARMTH/HEAT DISSIPATION > AIR INSTEAD OF A SOLID BOTTOM
UPGRADE THE IMAGE > NO VISIBLE SCREWS & DESK WILL BE IN ORDER
UPGRADE THE USER FRIENDLINESS > PLUG & UNPLUG WITHOUT HOLDING THE HUB
MAXIMISE THE GLOSS & REDUCE FINGER PRINTS, THAT WILL
SAVE YOUR TIME > NO NEED TO POLISH THE HUB ALL THE TIME
SAVE PACE

Materials and methods

MATERIALS:

- YOUR CHOICE!
- I USED PLA

NOTICE:
- THE MOUNT IS FRAGILE WITHOUT THE SCREWS
- BUT IT IS VERY STABLE WITHIN THE SCREWS
- THINNEST PART: 0,9MM

NEEDED:

- PVA SUPPORT ABILITY

SAVE PVA WITH THE PLA BAG "DATAS":

- TOP PLA BAG > "TOPPLABAG"
- TOP PLA BAG UPSIDE DOWN > "TOPPLABAGUSD"
- MID PLA BAG > "MIDPLABAG"
- MID PLA BAG UPSIDE DOWN > "MIDPLABAGUSD"
- BOTTOM WITH CABLE LEADER > "CABLEPLABAG"

- DONT FORGET TO LOAD THE PVA FIX FOR THE MID PART FIRST
- THIS WILL TAKE THE MOST TIME
- BUT IT IS SAVING A LOT OF PVA

- SAVE PVA WHILE PRINTING THE "HALF"-VERSION (ON ITS WAY)

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED:

- ACTIVATE THE SUPPORT ROOF
- ROOF AND ROOFINTERFACE: 0,8MM

SCREWS FOR THE TOP PART AND THE MID PART:

- COUNTERSUNK HEAD SCREWS:
- DIAMETER SCREW HEAD: 8MM
- DIAMETER SCREW THREAD: 4MM
- LENGTH (WITHIN THE SCREW HEAD): 40-45MM

OPTIONS:

- MID0 AND BOTTOM0 = ZERO SNAPS
- MID1 AND BOTTOM1 = TWO SNAPS
- MID2 AND BOTTOM2 = FOUR SNAPS
- MID3 AND BOTTOM3 = SIX SNAPS

YOU NEED TO FIX THE PVA SUPPORT:

- FOR SOME REASON CURA IS TAKING THE PRINT ITSELF THE RIGHT WAY
- BUT IT DOES NOT SUPPORT THE SNAP AREA OF THE MID PARTS.

LOAD THE FIX AND MAKE SURE THE PVA CORE WILL BE USED:

- MID1 AND MID1PVAFIX
- MID2 AND MID2PVAFIX
- MID3 AND MID3PVAFIX

REDOMMENDED:

- IF YOU WANT TO MOUNT THE HUB VERTICAL
- PRINTING THE MID AND THE BOTTOM WITH 2 SNAPS IS ENOUGH

- IF YOU WANT TO MOUNT THE HUB HORIZONTAL
- PRINT THE MID AND BOTTOM WITH 6 SNAPS

- IF YOU MOVE A LOT BETWEEN PLACES WITH THE HUB
- PRINT THE MID FOR ZERO SNAPS AND PRINT
- ONE BOTTOM WITH ZERO SNAPS FOR YOUR HOME
- ONE BOTTOM WITH ZERO SNAPS FOR YOUR WORK AND SO ON
- YOU AVOID THE VIBRATION FROM THE SNAPS
- SO THE LIVE TIME OF YOUR HUB WON´T BE REDUCED

WASHERS:

- HIGHT: 1-1,5MM
- OUTSIDE DIAMETER: 18,5MM, MINIMUM: 15MM

PRINT ORDER:

- MID PART
- PVA DECOMPOSITION WILL TAKE THE MOST TIME
- DEBURR THE EDGES INSIDE FOR THE BOTTOM PART IF YOU WANT
- NOT NEEDED BUT IT SLIDES EASIER

- TOP
- THERE IS NO NEED TO SAND OR DEBURR AS LONG AS THE PRINT IS GOOD

- BOTTOM
- DEBURR THE EDGES FOR THE MID PART IF YOU WANT
- NOT NEEDED BUT IT SLIDES EASIER

INSTALLATION:

- VERTICAL MOUNT
- DECIDE IF YOU WANT TO LEAD THE POWER CABLE AND THE USB3-B-PLUG CABLE
- UPWARDS OR DOWNWARDS
- THE CUT OUT FOR THE BOTTOM WILL ALWAYS LOOK DOWN AT THE END

- HORIZONTAL MOUNT
- DECIDE IF YOU WANT TO LEAD THE POWER CABLE AND THE USB3-B-PLUG CABLE
- TO RIGHT SIDE OR TO THE LEFT SIDE
- MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT SEE THE CUT OUT FOR THE BOTTOM FROM YOUR PERSPECTIVE

- PUT THE ANKER HUB INTO THE TOP PART
- PUT THE TOP PART AND MID PART TOGETHER AS YOU PREFER

RECOMMENDED:

- IF YOU WANT TO MOUNT THE CABLE LEADER VERSION ON A WALL
- TAKE A DRILL WITH 8MM
- YOU WILL NEED THAT BOARD TO DRILL THE HOLES FOR THE WALL
- AND FOR SCREWING IT TOGETHER
- THE HOLES NEEDS TO EXACTLY AT THERE PLACES

-IF YOU WANT TO MOUNT ANY VERSION ON A BOARD (WOOD)
- TAKE A DRILL WITH 8, 10 OR 12MM
- DOES NOT HAVE TO BE EXACTLY, YOU NEED THE BOARD ONLY THIS ONE TIME

- PREPARE A BOARD WITH 6 HOLES FOR THE SCREWS
- USE THE DRILL HELPER FILE (ON ITS WAY)
- CHECK THE PHOTOS
- CLAMP THE ANKER HUB MOUNT CARFULLY BETWEEN THE DRILLED BOARD AND ANOTHER BOARD
- JUST THAT HARD TO MAKE SURE THE IS NO GAP BETWEEN TOP AND MID PART
- AND MAKE SURE THE ANKER HUB MOUNT CAN NOT SLIP AWAY, WHILE DOING THE NEXT STEP

SCREW IT CAREFULLY TOGETHER:

- THE ORIGINAL DIAMETER OF THE HOLE FOR THE SCREW OF THE MID PART IS 4MM
- THE ORIGINAL DIAMETER OF THE HOLE FOR THE SCREW OF THE TOP PART IS 3,85MM
- THE DIAMETER AFTER PRINTING IS SMALER, SO YOU HAVE TO
- MOVE THE SCREW FORTH AND BACK
- A BIT MORE FORTH AND BACK
- A BIT MORE FORTH AND BACK
- AND SO ON AND ON AND ON
- TILL YOU CUT A THREAD THROUGH BOTH HOLES
- DO NOT DO THAT TOO FAST
- THE FRICTION WILL PRODUCE HEAT
- TOO MUCH HEAT WILL MAY YOU DESTROY THE THREAD

- YOU CAN DO THAT WITHOUT THIS RECOMMENDATIONS
- THIS IS JUST THE BEST WAY
- PATIENT

BOTTOM:

WALL/BOTTOM:

- MINIMUM 1.6MM
- MY EXPERIENCE IS PVA SUPPORTED PARTS NEEDS ALWAYS 2,4 MINIMUM

- VERSION 1
"BOTTOM0"
"BOTTOM1"
"BOTTOM2"
"BOTTOM3"
MAXIMUM HIGHT COUNTERSUNK SCREW HEAD AND WASHER TOGETHER: 4MM

- VERSION 2 HAS ANOTHER LEVEL TO LEAD CABLES TROUGH
"BOTTOM0CABLE25" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 5MM - 2,5MM RADIUS
"BOTTOM1CABLE25" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 5MM - 2,5MM RADIUS
"BOTTOM2CABLE25" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 5MM - 2,5MM RADIUS
"BOTTOM3CABLE25" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 5MM - 2,5MM RADIUS

"BOTTOM0CABLE30" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 6MM - 3,0MM RADIUS
"BOTTOM1CABLE30" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 6MM - 3,0MM RADIUS
"BOTTOM2CABLE30" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 6MM - 3,0MM RADIUS
"BOTTOM3CABLE30" > SCREWHOLE DIAMETER: 6MM - 3,0MM RADIUS

DRILLING RECOMMENDATIONS:

- WOOD: ALWAYS 2-3MM LESS THAN THE BOARD ALLOWS. IT´S STABLE WITH 17-18MM
- SCREW NUMBER: 3
- SCREWS: EVERY DIY MARKET

- WALL: 52MM DRILL HOLE, GOOD SCREW ANCHORS WITH 8MM OUTSIDE DIAMETER, 50MM
- SCREW NUMBER: 4-6
- NOTICE: YOU MAY NEED A SPECIALIST SHOP TO BUY THE RIGHT SCREWS TO MOUNT THE CABLE LEADER VERSION.
YOU NEED THIS COUNTERSUNK HEADSCREWS:
- 5,5-6MM SCREW THREAT DIAMETER
- 8MM SCREWHEAD DIAMETER, 4MM HIGHT
- LENGTH WITHIN SCREWHEAD: 70-75MM

- MAY YOU HAVE TO REDUCE THE SCREW HEAD DIAMETER BY YOURSELF

- DEPENDING TO THE QUALITY OF YOUR WALL
- IT COULD BE VERY DIFFICULT TO MOUNT SOMETHING ON IT

- THE NORMAL BOTTOM GIVES YOU ENOUGH FREEDOM TO MOUNT THE HUB PERFECT
- EVEN IF THE DRILL HOLES ARE NOT EXACTLY AT THERE PLACES

- MOUNTING THE CABLE LEADER VERSION ON A WALL
- NEEDS PATIENT, KNOW HOW
- AND MOST OF THE TIME YOU WILL NEED A VERY GOOD DRILLING MACHINE

- I BASICALLY RECOMMEND TO MOUNT THE HUB ON A BOARD
- AND THE BOARD ON THE WALL

NOTICE:
- YOU CAN USE THE AIR LEVEL OF THE MID-PART TO LEAD CABLES THROUGH TOO
- BUT IT IS NOT THOUGHT THAT WAY
- SOME CABLES OR ADAPTERS WILL MAY PRODUCE HEAT
- LIKE THUNDERBOLT ADAPTERS AS AN EXAMPLE
- I RECOMMEND TO PRINT THE CABLE LEADER
- THAT WAY YOU ARE ALWAYS ON THE SAVE SIDE

- GOOD LUCK WITH THE PRINT PRECIOUS LIFE FORMS