25% infill

How much infill did you use?

Ah, btw, what do you think about a bowden-clip that is accessible from the outside?

Hey Amedee!

This is my suggestion for the bottom middle part: https://i.imgur.com/4LT9i4B.png

If you would modify it like that, than you can add some play on the bottom part (reducing the groove height a bit - just 0.1mm or so). The bottom middle part is then - once the screws are thightened - holding down the hotend in place, but it would be easy to move/slide the hotend to the end while installation.

Regarding of the camfer: Funnily it is in fact easier without the camfer (I changed the stl a bit locally). The reason is that the upper part is catching the edge (the camfer) at the end while sliding into position. I did a naive drawing here: https://www.pixilart.com/art/camfer-catching-0979e9bbf235ac1

Concerning the scaling problem: After removing the chamfer, adding the "press down thing" and scaling to 100.3%, it fits very very well and tight now ;)

Mmmmh...

You might have scaling issues with your printer, I checked the model and the outer diameter is already 16.2mm


See: https://images2.imgbox.com/24/15/VBIpdQkw_o.png

I am happy to make an version for you, but you would need to tell me how much bigger it needs to be.

Also I am not sure to understand how suppressing the chamfer would make it easier, it can only make it harder (but we might not talk about the same chamfer ;) )

Note that you will need a very tight fit to avoid any movement of the head in the mount.

The bottom-middle part is just there to keep the head in place horizontally, there should be no need to press: the head won't move up/down as it is locked in the groove.

For my printer, I initially printed in nGen as first iteration, and used it to print a new one in PolyCarbonate. For the final one, I think I filed a bit the groove to have a smooth fit, and added epoxy glue to avoid any play -- just to be sure (there was some play at the end with the nGen version, but I guess printing 280°C+ was a bit too hot for the nGen...)

Furthermore: It would be very nice if the bottom-middle part would somehow "press down" the hot end a bit instead (of being so tight). Since the different v6 versions have different heights on the upper part (the one above the groove), it would be nice if you would offer different bottom-middle parts for the different hotends.

Cheers!

Am I the only one who is having some problems while fitting the E3D hot end into the bottom piece? I have printed this in ABS for the third time now, but it does still not fit (it's impossible to "slide" the hotend all the way to the end). I already scaled up the model since I think my first print shrinked a bit, but it still doesn't fit at 100.6%.

Would you mind to modify your design a bit for me? :)

The outer diameter is 16.1mm on my E3D, i think this is maybe caused by the pressed in bowden clip. Furthermore the camfer on the groove-socket (the inner one) somehow hampers me while siding the hotend the full way - could you please make the camfer smaller or even remove it? Thanks!

Interesting, I would not have guessed that running a 24V heater on 19V gives you enough power, but its probably smarter that runing a 12V cartridge on 19V

No tricks, it is a drop-in replacement.

There are a few things to consider though. The E3D hot end comes by default with a thermistor. You can either:

- Use it, but you need to add a resistor on the UMO board

- Use the thermocouple from the original hot-end or order a new one from E3D

- Use a PT100 RTD with E3D's amplifier

All 3 options work, the thermistor is not ideal if you want to print at high temperatures.

The other thing is that the E3D hot end is 24v, while the UMO is 19v. It works perfectly, but it takes more time to heat, in particular when you need higher temps. You can power your board directly with 24v if you replace the 12v linear converter.

Hi, Im upgrading an UMO myself atm and I see you used a modern heater cartridge as well. Did you change the controller as well or is there another trick?