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To prevent wrapping and dissolution of workpice from the buildplate when printing with ABS, a closed housing for the 3D printer is recomended. While I cant't find a housingcover for the Ultimaker 2 to buy, I constructed my own one. It should be as small as possible, with a pretty nice design and easy to remove. The cost of material amount to cheap 35$.

Additional I'm using a permanent buildplate (white) and a frontdor from www.3Dprinterstore24.de. While I had not installed these improvements I got 60% wast printing ABS, now after ten new prints (Workpieces with a great area of support) and over 60 hours printtime with the housingcover, I get 0% waste. I want to note, that I always warm buildplate and compartment for additional ten minutes before printing after reaching the biuldplate temprature of 110°C for ABS or 70°C for Colorfab XT.

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For assembly needed material:
- 44x M4 16mm slotted pan head screw
- 44x M4 screw nut
- 1x sheet of Plexiglas 500mm x 500 mm x 5mm
- 1x sheet of Plexiglas 1000mm x 500 mm x 2mm

For Assembly needed printouts:
- 1x frontrail left
- 1x frontrail right
- 4x cornerrail
- 1x endstop left
- 1x endstop right
- 2x bending gauge (optional)
(Because the objects are mounted in the interior space of the printer, I recommend to print them in ABS.)

Assembly instruction:
1. As possible the sheets of Plexiglas can be cutted in the hardware store. The two sidewalls results of deviding the 500mm x 500mm sheet of Plexiglas in half. The 2mm thick sheet of Plexiglas has to be cut to size 950mm x 325mm.
2. Print out the left frontrail. I suggest a brim of 11 lines, because a larger brim wouldn't fit to the Ultimaker 2. (Different to the pictures shown, the upward axle stub is tightened by a 13mm curvature.)
3. Print out the right frontrail. I suggest a brim of 11 lines, because a larger brim wouldn't fit to the Ultimaker 2. (Different to the pictures shown, the upward axle stub is tightened by a 13mm curvature.)
4. Print out the four cornerrails.
5. Print out the left endstop.
6. Print out the right endstop.
7. Lay down the frontrails and the cornerrails on the sidewalls and mark the roundings.
8. Mark the gaps at the bottom side of the sidewalls (rootend of the frontrails). The gap is 345mm long and has a hight of approximately 40mm (depending on the accuracy of the sheet of Plexiglas an sawing blade the hight could differ).
9. Cut sidewalls in form with a padsaw and metal blade.
10. Lay down the frontrails an the cornerrails in the sidewalls to mark borings.
11. Countersink the borings with the cone end of a wood driller.
12. Drill the borings cautious in the sidewalls with a 4mm metal driller.
13. Place the screw nuts in the provided, hexagonal slots of the frontrails and cornerrails and fix them with the M4 16mm slotted pan head screws to the sidewalls.
14. Put the left sidewall onto the left side of the printer, so the bottom of the sidewall butt against the overlap of the sled wall of the Ultimaker. Fit the front edge of the sidewall withe the front edge of the top sled wall of the Ultimaker. After that slide the sidewall 3mm backwards.
15. Lay the left endstop along the sidewall and slide it backwards so it butt against the overlap of the back sled wall of the ultimaker.
16. Mark and countersink the borings of the endstop.
17. Drill the borings cautious in the sidewalls with a 4mm metal driller.
18. Place the screw nuts in the provided, hexagonal slots of the endstop and fix it with the M4 16mm slotted pan head screws to the sidewalls.
19. Repeat steps 14. to 18. with the right endstop.
20. Lay down the L-shaped front face of the frontrails to opposite corners on the short edge of the long sheet of Plexiglas. Mark and countersink the borings.
21. Drill the six borings cautious in the coverplate with a 4mm metal driller.
22. Place the screw nuts in the provided, hexagonal slots of the frontrails and fix it with the M4 16mm slotted pan head screws to the coverplate.
23. For stabilization you can stuck a smal pole with adhesive tape between the arms of the endstops. The distance between the outer sides of the sidewalls should be 325mm.
24. Put the flat surface of the two bending gauge together and lock them with the two wedge-shaped clamps.
25. Place the housingcover with the open rear side on a table. Prop the free end of the coverplate on the back of a chair. The housingcover could be fixed at the cornerrails with screwclamps to the edge of the table.
26. Put the bending gauge in the first curve of the frontrails as shown in the image. The bending gauge prevents the coverplate to sag in the middle when heating it up.
27. Heat up the coverplate with a heat gun. Start at the end of curve which is nearest to screw connection with the frontrails. Heat up the Plexiglas very slowly and patient, because range of temprature between strating to bend (approximately 170°C) and over heating is very small. The Pelxiglas will bend around the curve by its own weight. While bending the chair must be slided towards the table until the Plexiglas suits the slanted 45° faces of the frontrails. But be carefull and move the chair only in small steps, so the own weight of the coverplate wan't become too high breaking the Plexiglas.
28. Mark and countersink the borings at slanted 45° faces of the frontrails. The coverplate should flush with the sidewalls.
29. Drill the borings cautious in the coverplate with a 4mm metal driller. Make sure the driller pulls into the screw hole of the frontrails.
30. Fix the bended coverplate with two M4 16mm slotted pan head screws and screw nuts to the frontrails.
31. Put the bending gauge in the scond curve of the frontrails.
32. Heat up the coverplate with a heat gun and bend around the second curve. You can remove the chair and use the own weight of the coverplate. At the end you can help with a little pressur to get the coverplate lay down straight along top side of the housingcover. But be carefull not to break the Plexiglas!
33. Mark and countersink the borings, two at the top side of the frontrails and four at the cornerrails. The coverplate should flush with the sidewalls.
34. Drill the borings cautious in the coverplate with a 4mm metal driller.
35. Fix the coverplate with M4 16mm slotted pan head screws and screw nuts to the top side of the housingcover. Now the housingcover has enough stability on itself.
36. Place the housingcover on its base.
37. Put the bending gauge to the upper back corner.
38. Heat up the coverplate with a heat gun and bend around the 90° curve. Use the own weight of the coverplate to do the work. Start at the beginning of the curve and make sure you heat up the coverplate smooth over the whole broadness unil the Plexiglas fits the curvature. Then went to the next streak. At the end you can help with a little pressur to get the coverplate lay down straight along back of the housingcover.
39. Mark and countersink the borings at the back side of the housingcover. In each case four on the upper cornerrails und fout on the bottom cornerrails. The coverplate should flush with the sidewalls.
40. Drill the borings cautious in the coverplate with a 4mm metal driller. 41. Fix the coverplate with M4 16mm slotted pan head screws and screw nuts to the back side of the housingcover.
42. Place the housingcover on its front side. Maybe you have to fix it a little.
43. Put the bending gauge to the lower back corner.
44. Heat up the coverplate with a heat gun and bend around the last 90° curve. You have to press a little to get the coverplate lay down straight along bottom of the housingcover. Use gloves because the surface is getting hot!
45. Mark and countersink the last borings at the bottom of the housingcover.
46. Drill the borings cautious in the coverplate with a 4mm metal driller.
47. Fix the bended coverplate with M4 16mm slotted pan head screws and screw nuts to the bottom of the housingcover.

When the coverplate isn't heated up equal over the whole broadness, it could get some small bulge at the outer sides even though you are using the bending gauge. To prevent these bilge, you can use a baby radiant heater instead of the heat gun.