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Pterodactyl, Pseudo Style
A pterodactyl styled automata.Toys
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Commercial use is not allowed, you must attribute the creator, you may remix this work and the remixed work should be made available under this license.
"Pterodactyl, Pseudo Style" is my attempt at a pterodactyl automata. Not being old enough to have actually seen a live pterodactyl (well almost), and having never seen one in a museum, I designed this stylized pterodactyl with animated wings from images I've seen over the years.
Video close up of the mechanics:
Video with body profile:
As usual, I probably forgot a file or two or who knows what else, so if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask as I do make mistakes in plenty.
Designed using Autodesk Fusion 360, sliced using Cura 2.5.0, and printed in PLA on an Ultimaker 2+ Extended and an Ultimaker 3 Extended.
Materials and methods
1) Print and Prepare the Parts.
I printed all parts on an Ultimaker 2+ Extended and an Ultimaker 3 Extended at .1mm vertical resolution. I've attached a PDF containing the name, count, infill, brim, raft and support settings for each of the parts.
This model uses some small parts in some very tight spaces.
Prior to assembly, test fit and trim, file, sand, etc. all parts as necessary for smooth movement of moving surfaces, and tight fit for non moving surfaces. Depending on the colors you chose and your printer settings, more or less trimming, filing and/or sanding may be required. Carefully file all edges that contacted the build plate to make absolutely sure that all build plate "ooze" is removed and that all edges are smooth. I used small jewelers files and plenty of patience to perform this step.
This model uses threaded assembly and the threads are M6 by 1 and M8 by1. Note in the PDF that I printed certain parts with threaded holes on a raft in order to make post printing clean up of these parts much easier. If after printing the threaded holes are difficult to install a part into, then use an M6 by 1 or M8 by 1 steel screw, or an M6 by 1 or M8 by 1 tap to clean them.
2) Assemble the Bellcranks.
Using one "Knurled 6mm.stl", attach one "Arm Yoke.stl" to one "Bellcrank.stl" as shown.
Using another "Knurled 6mm.stl", attach one "Arm Wing Tip.stl" to the same "Bellcrank.stl" as shown.
Both arms must rotate freely on the bell cranks.
Repeat this procedure for the remaining "Bellcrank.stl" as shown.
3) Assemble the Base.
Position "Spur Gear (40 teeth).stl" into "Base.stl" as shown.
Thread one "Cam.stl" into "Spur Gear (40 teeth).stl". Thread the remaining "Cam.stl" into the opposite side of "Spur Gear (40 teeth).stl". Tighten both and examine the orientation of the threaded holes in both cams. The rear cam (the cam closest to the hole for "Axle Gear 20 Teeth.stl") threaded hole must be straight left, and the front cam threaded hole must be straight up, as shown (note in the photograph I have installed the cam pins for clarity only, do not install them at this time). If the threaded holes cannot be aligned with the cams securely tightened, remove one of the cams and insert a ball of tissue paper made using an 8 by 8mm square, drop it into the gear hole, then try the alignment again. When complete, the cams must be securely tightened, the threaded holes must be aligned as previously described, and the gear and cams must spin freely in the base.
Press one "Slide.stl" onto one "Yoke.stl" as shown, making sure the shorter end of the slide is opposite of the threaded yoke arms. Repeat this procedure with the remaining "Slide.stl" and "Yoke.stl".
Slide one yoke assembly into the yoke guide located at the front of the base assembly as shown. Rotate "Spur Gear (40 teeth).stl" until the threaded hole in the front cam is oriented straight left (or right), then carefully position one "Pin Cam.stl" through the yoke assembly, and thread "Pin Cam.stl" into the threaded hole in the cam (I used small needle nose pliers and some patience to perform this step). Repeat this process for the rear cam using the remaining yoke assembly and "Pin Cam.stl". Apply a liberal amount of lite machine oil in the slide guides. When complete, "Spur Gear (40 teeth).stl" should rotated freely and the yoke assemblies should rise and lower in the guides.
Slide "Axle Wing Center.stl" partially into the axle hole in the rear of the base as shown. Position the bell crank assemblies on this axle as shown. Position "Wing Right Root.stl", then slide the axle forward just far enough to engage the rear axle hole in "Wing Right Root.stl". Position "Wing Left Root.stl" then slide the axle forward through the left wing root axle hole, through the front axle hole in the right wing root, and finally, through the front axle hole in the base as shown.
Attach the free ends of the two "Arm Yoke.stl" attached the bell crank assemblies to the rear yoke assembly using two "Knurled 6mm" as shown.
Attach the two remaining "Arm Yoke.stl" between the wing roots and front yoke assembly using two "Knurled 6mm" as shown.
4) Attach the Wingtips.
Attach "Wing Right Tip.stl" to "Wing Right Root.stl" using one "Axle Wing Tip.stl" as shown.
Attach the free end of the "Arm Wing Tip.stl" attached to the rear bell crank assembly to the control horn of "Wing Right Tip.stl" using one "Knurled 6mm.stl" as shown.
Attach "Wing Left Tip.stl" to "Wing Left Root.stl" using the remaining "Axle Wing Tip.stl" as shown.
Attach the free end of the "Arm Wing Tip.stl" attached to the front bell crank assembly to the control horn of "Wing Left Tip.stl" using one "Knurled 6mm.stl" as shown.
5) Assemble and Install the Hand Crank.
Using "Crank Bolt.stl", attach "Crank Knob.stl" to "Axle Gear 20 Teeth.stl" as shown.
Slide this assembly into the crankshaft hole in the rear of the base, through the hole in the tall tower of the base, then thread "Spur Gear (20 teeth).stl" onto the assembly.
Turn the hand crank clockwise (as viewed from the rear) to make sure the entire assembly operates freely.
Attach "Body.stl" to the base assembly small rectangular holes as shown.
Congratulations, you're finished!
Hope you like it!
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Thank you very much, and I'm truly happy that you enjoyed this design!
My goal is to inspire others and share ideas, and I always appreciate when people take the time to comment, good or bad, on my work.
Thanks, I am sincerely grateful that you enjoyed this and the other designs!
I'm here to share, and truly enjoy doing so.
Man, Greg, you are insane. This is one of your best yet, and that's saying something!! Thank you so much for sharing your incredible work!
Wow, another incredible design. Your work is a shining example as to why I got into 3D printing in the first place. Thank you for contributing to the community sir!