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Regulated squonking mod
Squonker with 2 parallel 18650s and a 10ml bottleOther
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This is a squonker that gets me thru the day without changing batteries or refilling. There are many readily available mechanical squonk mods, and quite a few regulated ones, but all that were not vaporware (hah!) only had a single battery and/or tiny bottles.
So I designed my own, and it worked so well that I've been using the beta version exclusively for half a year.
The chip/electronics are taken from an Eleaf Aster mod, as that's the cheapest I could find which supported the great ArcticFox firmware. Accordingly, this is a 75W device, but when printing it from PLA you should probably not run it at 75W for too long or it may soften. At around 30W, heat is not an issue.
The CAD was done with Onshape, it's available here
Materials and methods
- an Eleaf Aster mod for the chip and the spring-loaded battery contact
- a FatDaddy v5 squonk 510 (or a clone)
- "Coppervape BF" 10ml squonk bottles
- a length of silicone tubing for the bottle
- 4 pcs 3x2mm cylindrical magnets
- a 12x12x4mm pushbutton
- some wire of the appropriate gauge, soldering iron, copper rivets as fixed contacts, M3 screws etc
- a 23x10mm piece of clear plastic as a "window" for the display
Print the STLs; either main_body_onepiece or the lower and upper pieces, depending on how much you hate printing with supports; the up_down_button is needed twice, of course, everything else just once. Note that the bottle cover exists in two versions, one flat and one "ergonomic", you only need one.
Make sure you stop the print of the main_body and bottle_cover at the appropriate time to insert the magnets; they are 0.2mm below the surface.
I designed and printed everything at 0.2mm layer height, except the buttons, which are 0.1mm.
If you printed the main body in two parts, insert some filament pieces in the holes to align them and glue them together with superglue.
Connect the two spring-loaded contacts with a piece of wire and attach another piece of wire to go to the chip; insert the contacts in their cavities at the bottom and glue on the contact plate.
Solder together some copper rivets with a piece of wire for the upper, fixed contacts. attach the wires to the 510 (hint: that slide-on positive contact block that comes with the FDV 510 is unreliable; I've cut in half a screw terminal and used that), and route the whole mess through the upper contact compartment; finally glue on that contact plate, too.
Then solder the wires to the chip, clip or glue the switch on its position on the main body, and put on the chip cover with an M3x10 screw. Sounds easy, can be very fiddly. It helps to put masking tape at the outside of the cover to keep the buttons from falling out while you're handling it. You may need to file down the buttons a bit to get them just right where they don't rattle and don't depress the microswitch.
Attach the bottle and the atty, squonk and vape!
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