Sli3DR - (pronounced Slider) 3D Printer

Sli3DR is not a Delta based printer, rather it's based on an intriguing 'unnamed mechanism' that was floating around on the RepRap Forum and G+ last year. Billy Zelsnack Identified it as used in a very old (Rikadenki) Pen Plotter design.

3D printer parts and enhancements

Creative Commons Attribution Share Alike

Commercial use is allowed, you must attribute the creator, you may remix this work and the remixed work should be made available under this license.

Learn more or download attribution tags


A few people have tried it out for 3D printing using off the shelf mechanical parts, I wanted to make it with 3D printed parts and Spectra Line based on this mechanism.

Tim Rastall was also designing a Super-big Tantillus called the Ingentis around the same time. I printed an early set of Ingentis parts, but after seeing the above mechanism I just had to design a printer based on it. I did borrow the style of Tim's Z-Axis arms, (Thanks Tim) everything else needed to be designed and had to be able to be scaled up or down.

Edit - This bit's updated for correct back credit of bringing the mechanism to the attention of the RepRap and 3D printing community - David Moorhouse over on G+ showed a cable bot design 1st November 2013, see here -

David's original video sparked great discussion over the mechanism, Tim Rastall made a great sketch of the 'unnamed mechanism' - still unnamed as far as I know.

Find out more about David's build over here -ο»Ώ

If you have any problems with these files, try over on GitHub -


PLEASE READ License, project and contact info -

This Design is part of the RichRap Sli3DR 3D Printer (A RepRap project)

Thank you for downloading, please be aware and abide by the license all these files.

The RichRap Sli3DR 3D Printer uses an
Attribution - ShareAlike Creative Commons V3 (CC BY-SA 3.0) -

This License is not greatly restrictive at all, so please don't forget to attribute my work
and acknowledge.

If you decide to print and sell these or make further changes,
improvements or additions, that's great! I want you to do that !

I hope this work has been of some use to you,
if you wish to say hello or donate towards further developments please see my Blog
here -

Many thanks - Richard Horne (RichRap)

Please feel free to contact me.

My website -
Catch me on Twitter @RichRap3D
Watch me on YouTube -

Please see for information about the RepRap Project.
Please visit the RepRap forum -

These files were originally shared on -

Please support this growing and open community.

Materials and methods

20mm Aluminium section Lengths for the Prototype build

290mm x 6
300mm x 4
500mm x 2 (430mm to top front)
650mm x 2

Heated Bed
189mm x 2
290mm x 2



See all issues or open a new issue


Da4e2341af5513ce35a2110e0f87f325?default=blank&size=40BarronEric added this to the pb2 collection ago
Fb8f66d76a699e2c17500d6c3902e141?default=blank&size=40Abigail Eades added this to the 3D Printer collection ago
93dbebf9372383b7237be1d1a92242ec?default=blank&size=40vumucsr created issue Issue Run 2023 ago
B3f652ee4ae24c77f9f661f1842b3823?default=blank&size=40Hakki added this to the 3DPrinters collection ago
630d0799a61cee8ec68f8f172fd3bd07?default=blank&size=40arroyo2408 added this to the TFL collection ago
Mini it meBradley added this to the My Prints collection ago
B421fcdd7d387f8451095fb87010cccf?default=blank&size=40happiii added this to the hp collection ago
F6ef79dab4241f4dbea1bf13e02a9e46?default=blank&size=40Fraudrin68 added this to the Custom hotends, printing processes and reclamation collection ago
46fe36bd0d417cc8d4f5848bfc85ad00?default=blank&size=40Amer Sh. added this to the ARSH collection ago
657d106d49f8358163acba8b1f3b6735?default=blank&size=40Lucas BrΓ­gida added this to the Make collection ago
Df8067572b61f4b1b8e292b718b1ff1e?default=blank&size=40imoraj added this to the Robotics collection ago
Daad1355e63b4f0ae1271dc5d5afdad6?default=blank&size=40jamiekhau added this to the spectra line printers collection ago
2e50f20a7b8a9ecb03bf140d93ee5a3a?default=blank&size=40Amado added this to the Printer collection ago
F89bdf1dd7f8561cf8051bc10fc2533a?default=blank&size=40Andrey Starostin added this to the Printer collection ago
9984b0301c719433b30c974135b6b4f3?default=blank&size=40Surmarine added this to the Andres 3D collection ago
Mini img 20160616 214649728ltmhenrique added this to the Printer collection ago
6a117ff668ea197f1f639fb3c023960b?default=blank&size=40PaweΕ‚ UrbaΕ„ski added this to the 3d printe addons collection ago
362c56710721cfe3df11c4aeadf668f8?default=blank&size=40hyrez99 added this to the Make This collection ago
Cff72edb751e48f3c62702b540173917?default=blank&size=40Renega added this to the NyomtatΓ³ Γ©pΓ­tΓ©s collection ago
Ce65e5ce42bbcffef5f9f77704771043?default=blank&size=40Levesque_J added this to the 3d Printer collection ago
27fcdc006652cf865f0745ef74e6d5b1?default=blank&size=40bjone177 added this to the Potential Builds collection ago
96509ad86bb537206b4b297d8bc64cf3?default=blank&size=40DJW added this to the 3d printer collection ago
874c9c3d192fe32fd1c1b8c1b46215cd?default=blank&size=40Raphael Rocha added this to the projetos futuros collection ago
6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

@E302envy the backlash i'm experience (on all axis) is almost like a lag between direction changes. so when I take z to the hotend, and then start to move it down, the first layer (or even 2 depending on the layer height) won't actually move the bed... same thing happens if I reverse direction.. it takes a fraction of a millimeter of movement before it'll actually start to move.

Feel free to hit me up on email to chat more... I'd love to get into it a bit more w/ another sli3dr owner :D scoopthree(at)gmail(d0t)com

I might know the cause of your issue... as I've experienced it a little before :D

Be9dab81d4ba970ee775413fe6d0aead?default=blank&size=40E302envy commented ago

@vonGreezly - can u describe the issue you are having with the z backlash and what it looks like in your prints. I have been struggling with a what I think is a layer misalignment issue that i can not seem to figure out ( maybe it is actually z backlash ) . my printed layers are ever so slightly miss aligned which gives me un-smooth walls on a printed cube.

2811205745a43cae618e4e6afda1dd16?default=blank&size=40Robert Wallace added this to the 3D Printer collection ago
6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

Anyone experiencing Z Backlash on this baby? I feel like there shouldn't be any... is my Z string not tight enough? i've got it workable in backlash compensation in the FW, but wondering if anyone else is experiencing this as well?

0548e9786e1b9115573e63df6c5be2a2?default=blank&size=40Kimmie83 added this to the 3d printer stuff collection ago
225e1ccc8435c37897bafa6bbec69699?default=blank&size=40moyboyufl added this to the printers collection ago
6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

Finally got my Sli3dr up and printing pretty well! Need to dial in a few more things, but yeah!!

Was wondering though... Anyone else got one of these going, what're you using for print cooling?

1ad9f6f09cfe64b36f1cddb88eeaa419?default=blank&size=40Rupert Shih added this to the 3d Printer collection ago
E8311f96812e62588e32b34f02e1c9c1?default=blank&size=40StevenL added this to the Slider 3d printer collection ago
5f3ec61e2867214cc0d99efe5309b970?default=blank&size=40lsklam77 added this to the printer part collection ago
Fbd0fa087a9e3c340d6c2f3fdc18e97b?default=blank&size=40Ethan Engels added this to the Things to Print collection ago
987e86d16a38394f659f85b0e4b17e2b?default=blank&size=40Robert Klauco commented ago

I am expanding your design a bit ;)

X axis is assembled already, just the motor drive needs some more work.

2e9771224405020c3d7777de1cae86ae?default=blank&size=40xredik added this to the ΠŸΡ€ΠΈΠ½Ρ‚Π΅Ρ€ collection ago
9c9aed75f511db773551bba6d11895e7?default=blank&size=40Stephen Mott added this to the 3D Printing collection ago
Daaf65451e2d0215115b52461917be27?default=blank&size=40jingdong added this to the CoreXY collection ago
B11f46fb30f549e1e219203396d4aec6?default=blank&size=40cassettemonster added this to the Printers collection ago
50bc30422769a0cb3d4c23dbfab0252a?default=blank&size=40Stephen Condit added this to the Printers and Mods collection ago
2da9a88a6449e23b580bad4b42a84f54?default=blank&size=40Abcopp added this to the 3D Printers (and parts) collection ago
Mini lisca mangaLisca added this to the 3D Printer Parts collection ago
Mini lisca mangaLisca added this to the 3D Printers collection ago
8329010127b46267232d931e4e222b31?default=blank&size=40trimmertmb added this to the printers collection ago
Mini 2009 05 28 111622Pumpkin added this to the Printers collection ago
Mini img 20131230 122447Felipe Aguirre added this to the printers collection ago
Mini sp logo grain 400x390Stamos added this to the 3D Printer collection ago
F5ef7a90ce44fa316525ff2b4c242c25?default=blank&size=40Christopher Miguel added this to the 3D Printers I Like collection ago
52481a8f9fb5453a81c4d38752510ebd?default=blank&size=40Grisworks added this to the reference collection ago
8604ca71e5d24da50bb0cb306b1b3b1b?default=blank&size=40cmfbook added this to the 3dprinters collection ago
6421fb5ce08dde724c147c0f94d37190?default=blank&size=40GΓΌnter Weber added this to the inspiration collection ago
97075eecafe44ea526c8ee6aca2e0ffb?default=blank&size=40maso added this to the Printers collection ago
7b42c39a883b4fc322326bf1233c7961?default=blank&size=40bruster999 added this to the BigPrinters collection ago
4cd8edf6dd98fcd1e549be05373f8fe3?default=blank&size=40Lieven Vanhercke added this to the Printers collection ago
2cb643180f0ab6c84931e53deaf9c997?default=blank&size=40thraxis added this to the Printers collection ago
Be9dab81d4ba970ee775413fe6d0aead?default=blank&size=40E302envy commented ago

what do you guys do to stop the line from overlapping itself on the spools and causing a jam - this seams to get worse with the thicker you go with line?

C68f8bd1514637c8a17ff503d9503e15?default=blank&size=40Vezdehod684 added this to the Π‘Ρ‚Π°Π½ΠΊΠΈ collection ago
E0c6337d491475f89a7b15029c9a66f4?default=blank&size=40Tomek commented ago

FatFreddie, sounds good. I didn't know it existed. The kevlar weight is apparently minutely higher, but still doesn't matter. What I like is that the kevlar might be better for a heated build area. Dyneema is OK at 70C but apparently might creep at 80-90C if anyone ever went that high (well 90C is too high for an ABS build platform, but maybe some other plastics.)

E0c6337d491475f89a7b15029c9a66f4?default=blank&size=40Tomek commented ago

FatFreddie, sounds good. I didn't know it existed. The kevlar weight is apparently minutely higher, but still doesn't matter. What I like is that the kevlar might be better for a heated build area. Dyneema is OK at 70C but apparently might creep at 80-90C if anyone ever went that high (well 90C is too high for ABS, but maybe some other plastics.)

25dcf3a5e970b963c270f6b8f7e6f8ed?default=blank&size=40FatFreddie commented ago

I used 150lb kevlar fishing / kite line (plenty of suppliers on ebay) - it's a bit stiffer and doesn't take so long to bed in as spectra line.

E0c6337d491475f89a7b15029c9a66f4?default=blank&size=40Tomek commented ago


You can buy spectra at up to 200lbs strength typically. I used to use 80lbs on my solidoodle but now use 200lbs. My main reason is actually for abrasion resistance, because for a while my pulleys weren't perfect and were wearing down the 80lbs over many hours. The 200lbs is proportionally thicker so it was slower.

Almost everyone is definitively using spectra . If you're having cutting problems then you need to investigate the interference. If you think you're over-tightening the spectra that is also possible but a little harder. In that case go up in size.

98881ce8fa9b076337b1857d95e6c74c?default=blank&size=40David Giegler added this to the Things To Build collection ago
Be9dab81d4ba970ee775413fe6d0aead?default=blank&size=40E302envy commented ago

Hey guys - what line are u using for this guy. I have 80lb spectra but it keeps snapping and cutting under the mounting points for the x and y carriage. Any thoughts or recommendations.

2058db33b3521265973bc268281bc800?default=blank&size=40Tateums added this to the Stuff to Make collection ago
D9646beab76605b146d9e3283275bf63?default=blank&size=40Hmj MJ commented ago

Hi, i am making a printer based on this, but when X axis is moving, left side of Y axis get movement 1-2mm but the other side is stable, some one can help me?.

4ec2727e7e8d55bb01c46f0c608107d8?default=blank&size=40Vladaz320 added this to the 3d collection ago
Cb013efa08026866713ee8ea4f98a733?default=blank&size=40Sergey Fedorov added this to the 3D Printers collection ago
6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

@E320envy does it only home in the wrong direction? Or is it just moving in the opposite direction all the time?

If you want, I can send you my working firmware, and you can compare.. Or even just use it.. Though you'd probably wanna dial in the max settings to that of yours so you dont crash haha

I'm not using any code at the beginning of the print. All was config'd via the GUI firmware editing tool linked in richrap's original firmware zip..

Be9dab81d4ba970ee775413fe6d0aead?default=blank&size=40E302envy commented ago

And are you incerting a command in your start code to tell the printer to move to the software z end stop before it starts the print . Not sure why I can't get my brain arround this and thanks so much for the help you have already given,!!!!!!

Be9dab81d4ba970ee775413fe6d0aead?default=blank&size=40E302envy commented ago

@vongreezly - am still having issues over here - rest all my firmware setting to match the config.h on Richards github page - except for LCD and printer size and end stop inverting as I am using optical end stops. Y homes great - z now homes to min end stop at bottom of printer but x homes in wrong direction. What am I missing here. Basically I am try to understand why any of these setting would be different then RichRaps ( besides end stops being optical and different LCD )

Mini florinf profilepicFlorinF commented ago

Does anyone have a working Slid3R working video of the X,Y,Z pulleys while the printer does a full print volume jog? I am really interested in seeing both the X and Y bobbins while the printer does a full bed rectangle and also the same for Z with a top-bottom jog for a few times. But I can't find anywhere on youtube/web any Slid3R in motion/printing maybe?

As I see it mentioned on reprap forums on many threads concerning belt-Z I am getting more and more curious.

Also another question: how much can the design be stretched on the Z until the bobbin string walking is too much? We can calculate that for a 16mm bobbin and 300mm Z there should be 6 spectra coils on the bobbin. Now if the spectra is say 1mm in diam, 6 rotations of the motor will have the 6 coils walk away from the original position with 6mm. How can we assess how much are these 6mm affecting the spectra tension? Will this weaken the string?

25dcf3a5e970b963c270f6b8f7e6f8ed?default=blank&size=40FatFreddie commented ago

Spectra line takes a little while to settle down (big tighten after 1 day, smaller after two, smaller still after three), kevlar line settles down faster and isn't as stretchy generally.

6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

Here's the checkbox I was talking about. To get the Z dialed in, I homed, and then adjusted position until it was at the optimum print-height (using a piece of paper as you said), and then re-entered that value for Z height, and then reflashed the firmware with the new settings. Took a few times to get EVERYTHING perfect, and there is also a little bit of adjustment to be had in your bed (depending on how you did it)

6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

Regarding your spectra line tension, it could be slipping maybe? I've got mine setup so I can adjust from either side of a spool by tightening the bolts that the spectra ends on. This also took a little bit of playing around, and I ended up re-wrapping my X spool because I didn't have enough coils on it.. .but yeah, it seems to stay tight.

Be9dab81d4ba970ee775413fe6d0aead?default=blank&size=40E302envy commented ago

One of the really good things of building this guy is that I have never used sketch up before and had to teach myself how to use it and I am now really starting to like it. Once you get used to it I think it is a fantastic tool !!! Thx RichRap for that lol!!!!!

Be9dab81d4ba970ee775413fe6d0aead?default=blank&size=40E302envy commented ago

Ok that would be great - that's was what I was thinking also but when checking the config.h on RichRaps github sli3dr page it shows the z set as min and hence me question. - can u also describe how you calibrated the z to be at the correct night for printing - on my prusa i3 it is done with a pice of paper and adjusting the z end stop to get nozle to bed night right - am completely missing how to do it on this for some reason - thanks for the help guys and sorry for the dumb questions

6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

@E302envy if you're using the repetier web interface to config your firmware, there's a check box that inverta the home direction. I believe I also set my home endstop as a max endstop instead of a min... I can try and get a screencap if / when I get these kids to sleep...

Be9dab81d4ba970ee775413fe6d0aead?default=blank&size=40E302envy commented ago

Hey guys - for the guys with running machines - I have a question. I finally got my machine up and working but am struggling with the z platform and how to get it set right - it homes great but when I try a test print it stays at home. I think I am missing something in the slicer that tells it to move the z platform up to the print head - any help would be great - thx guys - also my spectra line seam to keep losing tension for some reason - any thoughts ?

Mini florinf profilepicFlorinF commented ago

I'd be ok with jogging it top bottom for several times, maybe 10 or more to see how the spool of spectra behaves while moving towards the motpr and back. It would be also interesting to have the string split and a spring inserted so we can see the change in tension when the spool walks away from the straight-ish line.

6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

@realthor I'll try and get a vid sometime soon heh. I had a bit of a meltdown @ the hotend, so things are kind of apart and haven't had time to put 'em all back together yet... Z still functions, so I can zip it up and down a couple times if that's all you're lookin' for?

2d4f9d775bc951574f56d2f78ebde003?default=blank&size=40Alan Davies added this to the 3d equipment collection ago
Mini florinf profilepicFlorinF commented ago

Ok, i get it, maybe 100-200 steps/mm are something to be aimed for. Is there any video in the wild or something you guys can shoot so we can see the Z in action, maybe jog it from end to end while focusing on the motor/bobbin. I hope it's not too much to ask but I would really like to see it in action.

30821bb12125317c2c1710c79700088c?default=blank&size=40bringho commented ago


The Smartrap Core use 20 teeth pulleys with a diameter of 12.7mm. If they are using 1.8Β° motors and 1/16 micro steps they get 3200 steps over 39.9 mm travel. That's 0.0124 mm travel / step or 80 steps / mm (since it's not a lead screw).

Let's compare with two known machines using lead screws:

My old PrintrBot Simple 2013 Makers Edition use the imperial 1/4"-16 Acme screw (1.5875 mm/ revolution) which give me 1,0000009765625 mm z-axis movement at 2015.75 steps / mm . That's 25 times higher resolution than the SmartRap Core.

The Ultimaker's Z axis screw is 3mm/turn, they use 1.8Β° motors and 1/8 micro steps which gives

0,001875mm z-axis movement per pulse or 533,33 pulses for moving 1mm. That's 6.66 times higher resolution than the SmartRap Core.

I'm aiming at 200 steps / mm which is 2.5 times better than the SmartCore and I hope I will be satisfied with that. it's almost one third of the Ultimaker and one tenth of the Printrbot Simple though.

I guestimate it will be sufficient, but if I need more resolution I have a number of ways to increase it.

There are 1/32 step drivers available, I can design a smaller bobbin and I have an idea of how to increase resolution with a factor of 2 if necessary.

Mini florinf profilepicFlorinF commented ago

Ok, just finished reading a nice article on fine machinery errors ( and understand better the Phenomena. However i fail to see why finer grained possible resolution helps. The controller tells the motor to turn 100 times to achieve 0.1mm on Z ok? Many mechanical hanical errors later the bed usually moves less than commanded rather than more but it will still rotate 100 times before it stops. On the other hand, a less fine grained resolution system will tell the motor to rotate 10 times to achieve the same advancement of 0.1mm. The needed torque is higher and the errors are added up the same way as with the finer grained system. Are we talking about the jerk resulted from trying to move with less steps the desired distance? Can you give a better example on why rotating 100 steps for 0.1mm is better than 10 steps?


Mini florinf profilepicFlorinF commented ago


"There is a difference between mechanical z-axis resolution and print resolution (layer thickness)."

I am not that experienced in 3D printing, just wetting my hands so forgive my ignorance.

I understand your point, there should be some give so you can adjust in smaller increments the imprefections of the printbed. Is there any other reason why you would want a capability of much better mechanical resolution than the printing resolution? I ask you this as I want somehow to assess how much fine grained do I need this mechanical resolution because I want to avoid the gearbox.

Can you shed some light on the solution chosen for smartfriednz's smartrap core, which uses a belt for Z also without gearbox and on direct drive. Are they achieving much fine grained Z mechanical resolution than my example below?

30821bb12125317c2c1710c79700088c?default=blank&size=40bringho commented ago


There is a difference between mechanical z-axis resolution and print resolution (layer thickness).

Since you will never be able to adjust your bed to be perfectly planar to the extruder.

You need to be able to handle that difference in height over the surface of your print bed.

Don't you think it would be wise to use a smaller z-axis movement / step than the 0.1mm layer size to solve this problem?

Mini florinf profilepicFlorinF commented ago

Uhh, got lost in your calculations. Let me try this way... I have a 200steps/rev motor and want a z resolution of 0.1mm. This is the norm, right?

Ok we need that the circumference of the bobbin divided by 200 must equal to 0.1, right? This is 2*pi*r/200=0.1 => r=0.1*200/2*pi ~=3.183mm. This means the needed bobbin for the gearless 200steps/rev motor will have a diameter of 6.366mm.

Because the motor shaft is 5mm itself, it is quite difficult to get a bobbin of 6.3mm diameter. To reach to your 18mm bobbin and still have the 0.1mm resolution i have to activate microstepping by a factor of 3 (18/6=3). So with x3 microstepping I would reach 0.1mm resolution on Z without gearbox.

So why do you want lower than that as a resolution? I see 0.005mm z-axis movement in your comment. That is pointless for the current 3d printers. Even for a SLA printer is not achievable.

Now we must take into account that the smaller the bobbin the more revolutions will spectra have to make to achieve sufficient grip. But this increases the "string walking" which translates to all kind of issues, from uneven tensioning (when the spectra on the bobbin gets further away from the straight line it would make between the bearings should it have been a timing belt instead, it continuously tensions the wire before it comes back to the starting point when you turn the motor in the other direction).

So from this point of view the bigger the bobbin the better. Which is why RR introduced the gearbox I would guess.

If you find a way to prevent string walking then you can get away with a very long and thin bobbin (coupler from 5mm shaft to 8mm threaded rod comes to mind). Do an image search for "Spectra Drive" or "Fishing Line Drive" if you are interested.

30821bb12125317c2c1710c79700088c?default=blank&size=40bringho commented ago


@vonGreezly, I've been doing some calculations this evening and my conclusion is that we need at least 1/16 microstepping with this motor / gearbox configuration.

@realthor, sorry about the confusion, I was thinking about the hold torque being multiplying by the gearbox ratio.

Here are my results:

200 steps / revolution multiplied with the gearbox ratio gives 1036 steps per revolution with this Nema 17.

Adding 1/16 microstep we get 16576 microsteps / revolution of the bobbin.

The difference with this configuration compared to a lead screw is that the z-axis lift with lead screw can be as low as 1.5mm compared to 56.55 mm with the current bobbin of 18 mm diameter. That's a factor of 37+ times...

Selecting 0.005mm z-axis movement / microstepstep gives me a circumference of 82,88 mm or a bobbin core diameter of 26,38mm (0.005 * 16576 = 82,88, 82.88 / p = 26,3815... This would give me 200 microsteps (or 12.5 full steps) / mm lift in the z-axis which is roughly one tenth of the steps / mm on my old PrintrBot Simple (using 2015.75 microsteps / mm). While needing less than 2,5 revolutions to cover 200 mm Z-axis height!

Selecting 0.00333 mm z-axis movement / microstepstep gives me a circumference of 55,254mm or a diameter of 17,588 mm which is close to the original bobbin diameter of 18 mm and use 300 microsteps / mm, an 50% more than the larger bobbin.

Of cause you could aim for a bobbin of 10mm diameter but it would only give you 31.416 mm z-axis lift / revolution. You would need to wind up 6.4 revolutions to get a z-axis lift of 200 mm. The fact that the gearbox output axis is 8mm will probably induce other problems...

I'll probably settle for 200 microsteps / mm for the (first) bobbin in my own machine ,)

@RichRap, what's your thoughts on this?

One final thought: It should be possible to use a variation of the y-axis configuration for the z-axis to get a mechanical reduction of travel by a factor of 2 (to double the amount of microsteps / mm) but it would probably be overly complicated and the benefit is questionable.

Mini florinf profilepicFlorinF commented ago

@bringho : Hmm, we must have posted around the same time as I didn't see your comment before posting. Ok, I don't know where I have mistaken in my calculations, I anyway used the info on the website I have mentioned.

Ok, 0.28 without microstepping. If you only increase the microstepping by a factor of two or four then you get in the usual resolution range. I don't think that reduces a lot the torque.

Anyways I can see your point now but I was wondering why for example the smartrap corexy design by smartfriendz doesn't use any reduction for their direct drive belt Z axis.

Thanks for your answer.

Mini florinf profilepicFlorinF commented ago

Ok, I assumed 1:1 for the direct drive which is wrong. I assume from the picture that the diameter of the Spool is around 35, maybe 45mm so the rapport is not 1:1 but about 9:1, which makes my calculations below update to 0.00625*9=0.05625mm/microstep, still within the normal resolutions, where 0.1 is the norm. And I have calculated with full stepping. The norm is x16microstepping.

Please let me know where am I mistaking :-/. I don't mind buying the gearbox, but if it doesn't help why waste that money.

6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

@bringho so I should be running the z w/ no microstepping? That all kinda makes a lot of sense... Gotta reconfigure some stuff hehe

30821bb12125317c2c1710c79700088c?default=blank&size=40bringho commented ago

No, the gearbox ratio is 5 point 18 to 1.

I don't remember the original diameter of the z-asis bobbin but my version has a diameter of 18mm which gives me a circumference of 56,54mm. That is the z axis travel for one revolution of the motor axis.

Divide with 200 for a 1.8Β° motor and you get 0.28 mm travel / step.

If you introduce micro stepping by 16 you get down to 0.017 mm / micro step movement and that may be sufficient.

Add the gearbox ratio of 5.18 and you are down to 0.0034... / micro step or 0.0545... mm / step without micro stepping while increasing the hold torque at the same time. I'm confident in following the original RichRap design in this case.

Mini florinf profilepicFlorinF commented ago

@bringho: but is it necessary? Are my calculations wrong? This reduction gearbox is 18:1 that is huge and I don't think it is needed. I wonder why did RR use it in the first place, which gets me to the conclusion that there is a flaw in my math :) .

30821bb12125317c2c1710c79700088c?default=blank&size=40bringho commented ago

I bought my Z-axis stepper motor with gearbox from

Probably this one:

6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

@E302envy richrap included a link in his firmware folder that takes you to the repetier firmware config wizard (suuuuper handy!!) Load in your config, and select the .92 version and then skip through to the download tab and redownload. Should compile fine~

6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

@E302Envy did you try compiling as .92 instead of .91?

6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

@EddyMI3D the sli3dr's mighty z axis cannot be bothered by such simple concepts as gravity. It might do that with a lot of weight on it, but not with the weight of anything it printed.

Mini gw051 avatarEwald commented ago

I see a greater problem in case the power goes off. So there is no more force from the stepper motor to keep the z-axis/heatbed in place and it will crash down. I would/will insert a worm gear to prevent this.

Mini florinf profilepicFlorinF commented ago

What reduction is the gear reducer at the Z motor and why is it needed? I've seen belt-driven Z (a la smartrap core) and they don't use gearing for Z. Wouldn't this work without the reducer? Assuming I am correct that this is considered a direct drive, so 1:1 gearing, then, according to you would get 160 microsteps/mm for a 200-step-per-rev motor, full stepping. That would be 1/160mm per microstep, which is 0.00625, a resolution which is more than the actual nozzles can handle (if I am not mistaking in my logic).

Mini gw051 avatarEwald commented ago

Thank you for that hint!

Will some time to finish my project, but I'm already collecting parts...

Be9dab81d4ba970ee775413fe6d0aead?default=blank&size=40E302envy commented ago

for some reason the firmware keeps failing when i try compile/ upload - any thoughts - am using the newest release of arduino ? fails in at lease 5 spots - i will grab the firmware off the github and try that - maybe mine is corrupted

Be9dab81d4ba970ee775413fe6d0aead?default=blank&size=40E302envy commented ago

Perfect guys - thanks for the answers - I actually found the files for the extruder that is used - well at least i think so. I believe it is Richraps goto rostock bowden setup modified for the Sil3dr - well at least that's what I will be trying. Going to also try the E3d Cyclops on this one. or cymera with to v6 Vulcanos for some really fast LARGE scale prints.

Mini  mg 4125Eddy commented ago

@E302envy The extruded stl's have never been released as far as I know.

Af82ca019bed2478b2d1fac217a4082a?default=blank&size=40Dan Kondrick commented ago

@EddyMI3d Its usually Spectra Fishing Line. I personally use 80 lb line.

@E302envy The Z routing is the same as the Y routing just in a different orientation. Also, Looking at the door, the X motor is on the left, Y on the right. I also want to say the comments used to mention that the extruder was experimental and as of yet unreleased, though I think any bowden will do.

Mini gw051 avatarEwald commented ago

I'm think to apply this to my new project.

I like to know what kind of wire/cord do you use?

Be9dab81d4ba970ee775413fe6d0aead?default=blank&size=40E302envy commented ago

I am also wondering which gears wades extruded is in the photos as I really like that one ?

Be9dab81d4ba970ee775413fe6d0aead?default=blank&size=40E302envy commented ago

Thanks Von greezly - that is a little more help but it don't see any routing of the fish line like that in the pics from rich rap - still trying to grasp the z-axes line routing and where it is mounted on the actual z platform in the pics . Also when look at the machine from the front - which is the x motor and which is the y motor? Sorry if these are dumb questions - I am just getting to the stage of being able to string the motors up. I also am using a different style LCD screen (2004 LCD smart controller) and am not familiar with the repetier firmware - looked it over last night but did not find a section to choose LCD type like in marlin. Thanks for the help and responses guys - really hoping that Richrap could chime in with some closer up photos of the z stage and maybe a better explaining of how to attach spectra to the z stage !!

30821bb12125317c2c1710c79700088c?default=blank&size=40bringho commented ago

Absolutely!!! I owe thanks to everyone on the reprap community to get where I am today, in this case especially to RichRap for leading the way with this interesting machine!

I still have ways to go though... On the list right now is first and foremost the bobbins, then new top corners using the new larger rollers ( V625ZZ 625VV) and finally new Y-axis mounts and Z-axis mounts that includes spring loaded fishing line stretching. All will be done in Inventor (as I use it at work) but STL's and BOM will be provided as soon as I have something usable to share.

The rollers I decided on trying are these : V625ZZ 625VV V Groove Guide Pulley Rail Ball Bearings Metal (5mm*16mm*5mm), they replace the original 624VV V Groove Sealed Ball Bearings Vgroove 4 X 13 X 6mm 3mm bearings found on ebay.

Also I decided on these bearings for the Z-axis : 630VV 6*30*8 V Groove Sealed Ball Bearings 0.236'' Vgroove.

6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

@bringho lookin' good man! you plan on sharing those files? ^^;

30821bb12125317c2c1710c79700088c?default=blank&size=40bringho commented ago

I've been working on two derivatives (one 200x200x200mm and one 300x300x300mm) since I saw this interesting machine a year ago. Unfortunately I'm not satisfied with doing one project at a time so this has been put on hold while updating my current printer to be able to print the thread bobbins more accurately than I am able to do now. My 200x200 machine looks like this at the moment:


It's not finished, I've found out that the small bearings for the fishing line wobbled so I have new, larger ones waiting to be designed into the machine, I have figured out how to include constant feather stretching of the fishing line but have yet to design/print the parts so there are some planned changed to do. the 300mm machine use most of these parts, only the motor mounts are expanded by 100mm. Hope to find time to continue with these machines asap!

6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

@E302envy Here are some pics of my Z run. I need to rewrap the spool so that it in-line w/ the pulleys, but it functions for now :D Also, yes, you need to zero Z, and then move it up until you're at your print level and then add that to the firmware so that it knows where it's supposed to stop.

Be9dab81d4ba970ee775413fe6d0aead?default=blank&size=40E302envy commented ago

Hey rich rap - am trying to build a 300mm x300mm version of this and am struggling to figure out how the spectra line is connected on the z axes - none of the pics really show it - could you describe how you attached it to the z axes. - and was also wondering how the z axes does its homing as the home switch is on the bottom - do you have to calculate how far it should go up to be ready to print and put that in the firmware .

Mini profile image mediumRichard Horne commented ago

Thanks Kirk. I have had a few issues myself with the new Sketchup, it can get into some nasty states where files are not saved - read-only. If in doubt I would recommend also installing Sketchup Ver 8 for looking at older file types.

I have no idea where all the Sli3dr comments have gone? - I'll try to find out from Youmagine.

Mini gravatariconKalani Kirk Hausman commented ago

The file is still present, but if you are using the SketchUp add-in, you have to update that to the 2015 version to access the files. The update is damaged, so will generate and error every time on Windows 10 systems, because the file references a folder that does not exit:

If you make the folder and upzip the Sketchup file, you can install all three files from the damage archive to the new folder you will have to create, and then execute the update to access the files. I have not tested the Pro version, only the 2015 Make to install on a 64 bit computer running Windows 10 and all updates.

Good fortune!

E0c6337d491475f89a7b15029c9a66f4?default=blank&size=40Tomek commented ago

vonGreezly, it's not just you. I'm looking to adapt the sli3dr, but unfortunately dont see the comments I previously saw. I checked and the "waybackmachine" does not have a copy, unfortunately.

7f421058021880a3ebb86b90baba0318?default=blank&size=40mariano_sc added this to the printer collection ago
6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

is it just me, or did all of the comments disappear? there was some really useful info in there... =\

Mini gw051 avatarEwald added this to the New Printer collection ago
6cae9257fa026fd24e0c70351afa9be6?default=blank&size=40vonGreezly commented ago

Almost finished hoarding my pile of parts to get this baby running. was wondering if anyone could tell me what the cylinder which is attached to the lift stepper motor is... as seen is this pic:



Mini profile image mediumRichard Horne published this design ago