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Star Wars Lightsaber (Complex version)
Inspired by the Star Wars Lightsaber. This is a full scale Lightsaber made out of more than 14 pieces (complex version)!
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Description
This is the complex version, there's also a normal version! Find it here: http://ultim.kr/1qxHPRf
This is the complex which is made out of more than 14 pieces! Jacky, aka Valcrow, created this model for Ultimaker and wrote a guest blog about it. It's interesting to read because it shows the differences between the simple and complex version, tips & tricks on how to print it and also how to assemble it. Read it here: http://ultim.kr/1sXd3mF
Update! New blog written by Jacky about painting 3D prints, including a sweet video tutorial: http://ultim.kr/1nsrl64
Model is hand painted by Valcrow from http://redicubricks.com
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Comments
can't find assembly instructions anywhere. any help on this?

- Printed on:
- Ender 5 Pro
- Result:
- Nice design, encountered some fitting issues but nothing a hot air gun, elbow grease and some glue can't solve. I had to print a longer switch pin, and do some stronger reprint of some parts as they broke during assembly. Printed in PLA in various colours, I found that the parts fitted better if printed without supports.
- Feedback:
- Congrats on a great design.
At first I didn't know what the "dring jig" was, then I realised it must be to help you attach the D-Ring to the pummel as shown in some of the photos. You need to figure that out as I have yet to do this project yet.
Damian, this site is cool man
Can anyone share the .stl files for the laser? I can't seem to find the file.
I just printed this in groups of parts in three different colors on my Anet A8; grey, black and wood PLA. The fit was pretty good, just some minor cleanup and a little filing.
figured it out what an idiot
printed fine on my jgaurora a3s using simplify3D but what do i do with the dring?????
I work in a school and my digital art teacher has been trying to print this for me, but the sizes for the different pieces seem to be off.
Can anyone please help?
thanks in advance
looks pretty cool, wish they'd make this lightsaber handle on the lightsaber umbrella i just bought..
http://fungadgetworld.com/star-wars-led-lightsaber-umbrella/
For what is Lightsaber Dring Jig part?
@pugbully You can find the instructions and design philosophy here. https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/87-3d-printed-lightsaber-design-philosophy-and-printing-tips For a quick assembly guide simply refer to the painting video we assemble it at the end.
I cannot seem to find the instructions? All links just go to a blog home page rather then the actual instructions. Can anyone help?
I did finally download that one. It worked a lot better but I still ended up breaking it.. Possibly my fumble fingers though.
@milamber18 There is an updated switch here: might have been missed with the comments pushing it down: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/light-saber-pin-and-switch-revision
The pin and switch were rather painful to deal with.
Fantastic model, unfortunately the Lightsaber Switch & Pin aren't to scale with the rest of the model
- Printed on:
- Makerfarm - Prusa 8 "i3 Kit
- Result:
- Some trial and error on Material and temperatures. Never got ABS to print the clamp or Riflegrenade without separating. Reprinted those in ABS and used the revised pin/switch and it turned out really well for a first try by a rank beginner. All printed at .12 layers normal speed so it has some artifacts and blobs. Will be reprinting entire thing in gray,black, and bronze/gold abs at much lower speeds for one to detail and weather.
- Feedback:
- Thanks for the awesome design!
PSA - This is a longer switch with additional bits for proper cooling.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/light-saber-pin-and-switch-revision
@jayLuvLL - The delamination and build-plate sticking issues are unfortunately ABS problems as are the grenade overhangs. I had a Up mini to use for a while and there's just no adjusting anything on that printer, it either works or it doesn't. It was difficult to make small pieces of anything on it, but it was decently good at larger parts. Ironic being that it's a mini :P
This model was designed to be printed on PLA however, and you may experience issues as you have with ABS.
Here is a recent print from a UM2 on PLA: http://shop3d.ca/wp-content/uploads/007-Print-to-Order.jpg
The overhang angle of the grenade should be able to print fine without supports as long as you have proper cooling.
The disk spacers can't be thicker or it'll mess with the fitting. You may actually need to trim off part of the disk spacer to make space for the buttons sometimes if it doesn't fit. Any thicker and it will push the grenade and heatsink a little too far out to fit nicely in the clamp.
Finished piece looks great regardless!

- Printed on:
- PP3DP - UP! mini
- Result:
- Great design, very well put together model with good tolerances between parts and an excellent finish.
- Feedback:
- The securing pin is a little too short, and shears very easily. I had to seek an alternate part, a slightly lengthened pin, on ThingiVerse designed as a replacement. I would recommend a different way of securing the switch. The tolerances on the stem connector to the grenade are a little tooo tight - I've printed three of this model, and on two it's snapped clean off after a few connects and disconnects. The Emitter Bearing Outer part quite often delaminates on the flat, underneath section (the side facing "forward" when fully assembled") while sanding. I needed Bondo to fill it and sand back all three times I printed it. The tiny lip on the Pinwheel part nearly always deliminates, it's simply too thin. Would recommend making it thicker, or coating in resin/glue before sanding to strengthen it. The bottom of the pinwheel also turns out very messy - wuld recommend a bottom breakaway "disc" that it could print on to eliminate strings and issues. The Disk Spacers are way too thin, they broke every time I tried to remove them from the bed. I had to increase their size in the Z axis by x3 in order to make them more durable and useful. The Grenade part is very hard to sand and finish, as it has loads of overhangs and a very rough appearance in all those little nodules. I recommend finishing this part with acetone vapor smoothing, rather than sanding. Rest of the assembly was a dream, very well fitting and strong. After showing a colleague my own model, I immediately had requests for two more!

- Printed on:
- SeeMeCNC - Rostock MAX Complete 3D Printer Kit
- Result:
- Very nice !
- Feedback:
- Printed with white PLA, mostly with 0.15mm layer. The riflegrenade was not easy to print (a lot of overhang), maybe it would have been easier with ABS. Printing the two small parts was challenging, the switch pin could be stronger. The assembly of the parts is very clever.
@Valcrow
Thanks!
@coolusername no, they are meant to be printed together. (assuming you're talking about the little round piece at the base) This is to help tall blade piece stay on the bed. Think of it like a brim that holds the blade to the bed 1cm above the base so that it has less of a chance of being ripped off by the print head due to the leverage it gets at the top.
You need 3 blade sections, one at the base that connects to the light saber, one in the middle (or a few depending on length you desire) and one at the tip to close it off.
That said, I think if you found some other object that's already a pipe shape, that's probably better. 3D printed pieces are weak along the grain, so a blade built vertically won't hold up so long. It was just incomplete without it so I included blade files. :D feel free to not use it though, most people don't.
The blade files seem to be 2 parts in one .stl. Are these parts supposed to be separated? I wasn't able to find any pictures of the blade assembled.
@Guilherme Martins Panayotou I believe it's a jig for bending a bit of filament into a D shape.
how to use dring ?
As well as my picture below you can just see that I made some changes and added a blade and LED's to make it extra awesome.
Hi Valcrow, thanks for your help.
You are right I do believe that there is something wrong with the Gcode, though I definitely ejected the sd before unplugging it, there could have been an issue with cura at the time of saving so I will have to re save and attempt the print again. I am using cura for the ultimaker 2.
Thank you again for your help. I thoroughly enjoyed building this lightsaber model and awesome work on the CAD files Its great to have something to print without supports for once!
@jakehart7 This sounds more like something is wrong with your Gcode, did you eject your SD card before you unplugged it or at least waited a few seconds after copying? What slicer and printer are you using?
This is the first I've heard of a part causing that kind of issue so it is more likely that it's something wrong with your setup. Model issues usually cause flaws in the print, but not weird behavior like that.
I have reason to believe that the stand file is corrupt in some way, after completing the main surface area the print head moves itself to the back of the print area and starts to ooze filament towards the print object.
After stopping the print and attempting to restart the print head appears to be clogged and filament does not extrude like it once did.
Is anyone else having this issue?

- Printed on:
- Makerqear - M2 3D Printer- Kit
- Result:
- Currently unpainted. Results are very nice.
- Feedback:
- Design is great, except every tolerance seemed tight. Lots of filing needed for the connectors and switch/pin to work. The connectors would be less fragile if they didn't have a hole down the middle. Couldn't tighten the clamp with the spacers in place, but they turned out to be unnecessary. Core must be printed in ABS, PETG, or similar semi-rigid material; PLA was just too brittle.
- Printed on:
- NW RepRap - Prusa Mendel Iteration 2 Complete Kit
- Result:
- This print was very succesful and it was really fun to print. There was some sanding required, but great job on Ultimakers part
- Feedback:
- Maybe try and decrease the size in some parts so there is no sanding required and try putting slots for LED's in the handle.