UM2 Fan Duct V2

Version 2, UM2 Fan Ducts that swivel aside for access to nozzle. Requiring no screws.LH Duct 4.8 grams, RH Duct 5.5 grams."V2" Shown Printed in Faberdashery Bling Bling Gold (PLA), "V2 R" in Faberdashery Arctic White

3D printer parts and enhancements

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Version 2, of my Fan Ducts. Designed to suit the "Olsson Block" (it can be used with the standard print head, just remove 3mm from the top of the Boss and Latch). UPDATE "V2 R" are a removable set (they just slip off) and a small fan stow part has been added.

If using dual nozzles just print a mirrored version of the Left Hand Fan Duct.

The Ducts do not require any fasteners to attach or for the fans, they swivel out of the way to allow easy access to the nozzle, and are vertically adjustable allowing adjustment for nozzle differences in set up. They also fit if using my Rear Heat Sink Fan Duct on the Rear Fan. to a modified Print Head Bottom piece to allow the cables to exit and the Heat Sink Fan Duct

Print Settings; for Cura. 0.1mm Layer, height, 1.2mm wall thickness, 20% fill, with Brim and Support everywhere. I would surgest printing in the orientation with the duct outlets being flat on the build plate.

After printing remove designed support for the rear boss (Shown in Red) and all support structure, clean up any bits, clean out the rear boss with a 3.0mm drill.

The height spacers are printed together on a sprig just seperate to use.

Fitting. Remove existing fan duct and unscrew fans, Remove one rear print head screw at a time (Long Knurled Print Head assembly screw), add a 'Top Screw Spacer' and reassemble passing through the 'Fan Duct' Boss. Repeat for other side Duct. Fit a Top Screw Spacer to the front screws as well.

The Fans are a push fit into the ducts.

Height adjustment, The Ducts can slide up and down a few mm on the rear screws to allow for vertical adjustment, the latching provides enough friction to hold in place, printing of the spacer set will give you spacer 0.5mm, 1mm &  2mm thick, these slip onto the rear screw below the duct and allow repeatability of position.

Please remember to latch the ducts back into position after any adjustments have been made before “HOME HEAD”

There is a great improvement on air flow so you may need to reduce the percentage flow depending on your heater. If you are running the “Olsson Block” there is a 35W heater available from “3Dsolex”

What Duck? Designs hope you enjoy this design, it was inspired by "Ultimaker 2 single -and Dual-Head Fan Cages (CPv9)" by mnis, with the screwless fan mounts and swivel feature.

Please let me know how you get on using these Ducts and any comments etc. this 2nd version has improvements due to suggestions and requests. Izzy

18/12/2015 UPDATE

There is now a easily removable set the "V2R" along with a "fan stow"

After warping the bottom edge of the duct when printing with a bed temperature of 100 Degrees and zero fans, i've redesigned the back boss to a C so that it can be slipped off when not needed, the "Fan stow" can be printed normal and mirrored to hold the fans in a stored position when the ducts are removed if printing with 0 fans. It takes less than 60 seconds to remove the ducts,  remove the fans, fit the Fan Stow parts and slip in the fans. and the same to reinstall the ducts. so no great effort.

21/12/2015 UPDATE

Slight alteration to all Tabs to slightly increase friction, if too tight gently file away material to suit.

Added new version "V2F" has fixing mounts to match the original screw holes on the print head, it can be used with or without fixing screws if wanted. 

Materials and methods

Left Hand Fan Duct, 1 off.
Right Hand Fan Duct, 1 off.
If using High Bed temperature and zero fans the V2R are removable without stripping of the head assembly screws use these and print off a "Fan Stow" and a mirrored one to stow the fans on the print head assembly in place of the ducts.
If using twin print head print a Mirrored Left Hand Fan Duct for the Right Hand Side.
Height Spacers, 2 sets if required.
Top Screw Spacer, 4 off.
See Below for Cura Settings
Use material of choice, (preferably the highest temp material you print)



Issues are used to track todos, bugs or requests. To get started, you could create an issue.


Fd0e8dc0bba9835818c87aa46aacbbdc?default=blank&size=40Tim Tackenberg added this to the UM2 collection ago
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E0e6ac36352b5a945b95dcd0fb06f445?default=blank&size=40JohsonChou commented ago

I mean more of the lines of "silent" instead of quiet...

Fan noises is pretty much the only noise I have right now. (even at 50%)

To put it into perspective, the noise from the ball bearing in my filament guide during retraction is the second loudest noise.

You should try TMC drivers... You will never go back :)

Mini imageIzzy commented ago

Running the fans at 50-60% is definatly quieter, the only noise i really have is the retractions from the bondtech feeder.

E0e6ac36352b5a945b95dcd0fb06f445?default=blank&size=40JohsonChou commented ago

Only reason I asked for 40mm fan is because I want quieter fans... pretty much all 30mm fans out there with reasonable airflow is noisy as heck...

It is part of my project of making ultimaker quiet... I've done TMC drivers and a press fit print head for igus bearing.

40mm fans with lower RPM and same airflow is way way quieter...

Anyway, I will look for other options or designing my own. Thanks

Mini imageIzzy commented ago

The design only suits the standard 30mm fans, for several reasons

1) it keeps the printhead size and mass smaller still allowing for fast acceleration movements.

2) It doesnt need bigger fans, I designed these to reduce the back pressure that reduces the actual air moved by the fans that happens with the standard ducts. The gradual tapering shape reduces the buildup of the back pressure effect, when I measured the the actual output airspeed it was about double that of the standard duct with the same area for the opening, the majority of the time I run these at 50-60% speed maximum, I cant remember the last time I ran the fans at 100%.

3) the size of the 30mm fans allows the ducts to swivel and unclip to be easily removed, and also allows for the heat sink Han duct to be fitted.

These work so well I don’t need 40mm fans and I think that would also affect the home position as the additional size would need to be allowed for, They took me a few days to redesign to get the shape and the improved airflow, so i wouldn’t be doing a larger size and I dont think uploading the origional cad files would be of any benifit to modify as its just as easy to make your own measurements of the items to then design your own to suit the 40mm fans.

E0e6ac36352b5a945b95dcd0fb06f445?default=blank&size=40JohsonChou commented ago

If you are still active, can you make a 40mm fan version of this? Or upload the original cad files?

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Carousel thumb dsc 0546
Printed on:
ultimaker 2
Works well - thank you. I like the design.
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Mini imageIzzy commented ago

The 35W should sort it out, I run with a 35W, the problem I had with the origional 24W was that when the fans came on they would cool the heater to 10' below the running temperature as the old heater couldn't respond quick enough then the error function would kick in and stop the print. If you do decide to print my ducts and use them in the future please let me know what you think of them. Happy printing, Izzy

Fb24644fcd2067592868cbed790ac481?default=blank&size=40MrTechAgent commented ago

Thanks Izzy.

I think a 35W Heater upgrade is in order, I had great success at 100% Fan with the Olsson Block and the stock shroud for little over a month now but only recently, since yesterday actually I constantly started to get heater errors at 100% Fan Rate. I made sure my Block wasn't touching the shroud but i still had the issue. Interestingly enough I only had this issue with my 0.6mm Nozzle which doesn't make any sense.

Anyway, I'll print the shroud and update!

Mini imageIzzy commented ago

Hi MrTechAgent, it's strange that you are now having issues after running fine with your old setup, are you running the origional fan duct or another's?

These duct are designed to improve the flow of the air to the output, the fans can't deal with backpressure, so these I have found these work fine, In fact I have to reduce the % so not to cool to fast, the origional fan duct used to produce different cooling on ears of the UM2 Robot, the left ear wasn't as good as the right, with these ducts the cooling now appears even.

You can adjust their vertical height and swing they out of the way to allow easy access to change the nozzle and clean. I would surgest trying the V2's and not the F or R varients. And don't forget to dial down the cooling fan rate.

Let me know how you get on if these solve your problem as others may be having the same problem. Cheers, Izzy

Fb24644fcd2067592868cbed790ac481?default=blank&size=40MrTechAgent commented ago

Hey Izzy, I had a question.

I recently started to have fan issues with my Olsson Block, I'm guessing this is my solution as the ducts are not pointing directly at the block, what do you think?


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Mini imageIzzy commented ago

I have reduced my Fan Speed to 50% of the initial setting for the material settings, that way for Cura files when they call for fans to be 100% it's 100% of the material setting. The Olsson block being larger does struggle with the lower wattage heaters, but the air flow is much better than the standard duct and hence the need to reduce the fan speed, what you should notice is the improvement on the standard robot print, on both overhangs and that the left ear is much better and perhaps no different to the right ear.

56bdd6666cc3de79a0eef7431c1fe50c?default=blank&size=40g0m3z printed this ago
Carousel thumb photo382654313487509491
Printed on:
Ultimaker 2
Printed pretty good with supports for the right side
perhaps its a problem with my heater block, but the um2 has difficulties to hold the temperature with this design (olsson block without 35w heater) does someone have the same experience?
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Mini xlogo3dx commented ago

Thank you for this!!

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