Fan Mount (UM2 + Olsson block)
A fan mount for Ultimaker 2 with Olsson block3D printer parts and enhancements
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This fan mount is a modification of https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-shroud.
The nozzle hole in cor3ys' design was too small to accommodate the wrench that was included with my Olsson block kit, so I enlarged it a bit. I also reshaped the air ducts to be larger and less focused on the nozzle (more like those on the stock Ultimaker 2 fan mount), and changed the screw holes to use the screws that came with the Ultimaker 2.
Before uploading, I tested the fan mount with PLA at 210 degrees without any problems. However, I later tried it with XT at 245 degrees, and experienced the dreaded Temp Error. So if you're printing at high nozzle temperatures, you may have to wait for the nozzle to get several mm off the bed before reaching max speed with the fans, otherwise the bed might deflect too much air back to the heater block.
UPDATE 1: I added v2 to the documents list which shortens the arms at the top of the mount by 2 mm. Printed with XT, it's holding up at 245 degrees and handles the temp error better.
UPDATE 2: v3 allows the option of eliminating the eight screws that hold the fans in place, borrowing from Izzy's brilliant design (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-fan-duct-v2). Printed with 0.1mm layers, the fans fit perfectly. Insert the top of the fan first, then push the bottom in.
UPDATE 3: The consensus seems to be that orienting the fans horizontally produces the best airflow, so I decided to do that with v4. However, making them completely horizontal would most likely have the fan mount crash into the side of the printer, so I went as horizontal as I could with them. I also made the right air vent wider, because I noticed I was getting less airflow on that side, due to the distance and angle.
UPDATE 4: Just for the heck of it, I decided to order some E3D silicone "socks" (http://e3d-online.com/Socks-Launch) to see if I could make them work with my fan mount. Coincidentally, they fit perfectly into the nozzle hole in my design. The only thing I needed to do was cut off the the tabs sticking up from the back of the sock (see photo), because the Olsson block is longer. Other than that, it fits right in, and the fan mount holds it in place. With the sock installed, I can run my fans as high as I want without worrying about air being deflected back up into the heater block which can cause inconsistent layers. Unfortunately, this addition defeats the quick nozzle change feature of the original fan mount design.
By the way, if you haven't upgraded your heater cartridge to 35W, I highly recommend it. Completely eliminates the temp error, even with thick layers and larger nozzle sizes.
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Glad to hear it printed well for you, Pelphry17! Make sure you do a PID autotune with your fans set to the speed you normally print at.
- Printed on:
- Ultimaker 2
- Printed fine. Fit is great. Fans fit right in with no screws. Have not tested yet.
- Thank you.
Thanks, I'll give it a shot!
Hi, Tyler. That's really strange, because I have an Ultimaker 2, so that's what this fan mount is specifically designed for. I'm sorry you had problems with the V4 design. V3 has more clearance on the sides, so I'd suggest using that instead.
I was unable to use the shroud (v4) in an ultimaker 2 without crashing the head into the sides of the printer. Is there a better version for the Ultimaker 2?
- Printed on:
- Ultimaker - The Ultimaker 2
- Excellent result, very happy :)
- A little tight fit for the fans, not major, but I had to use the Dremel a bit.
No worries at all. Let me see how I could figure out where there are a few tweaks to make and I'll post them here. Nether the less, great design! Looks stealthy
Sorry, stylewarz, I'm not familiar with the UM2 Extended or how it may differ from the original UM2. If you need me to make some slight modifications to the fan mount, though, let me know, and I'll see what I can do.
I'm not sure what I've done wrong. But when I want to mount it to my Ultimaker2Extended the Fan Mount touches the front right screw of the hotend carage. When looking underneath the Hotend does not stick out enough. Is this an Extended "problem"?
- Printed on:
- Ultimaker - The Ultimaker 2
This is one of the main reasons I'm really happy I bought an Ultimaker. The community is very resourceful and always willing to help others. Thanks for the great comments! I almost always print in PLA, so I haven't had to add any heat resistance to my fan mount, but I'm glad you guys found an easy mod to suit your needs!
I didn't use aluminium tape but Kapton. Should be this one: http://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-yds/dp/B006ZFNB2I/ref=sr11
In put it only on the inside of the fan shroud where the nozzle and heater block are closest to the plastic.
@EldRick or @Nicolinux, is this the type of stuff you used to line the inner area of this fan hood? http://www.amazon.com/Duck-240225-Repair-Aluminum-1-88-Inch/dp/B0000DI82J
Did you also put Kapton take "over" all the aluminum tape, or just along the edging to help secure it in place? Wanted to make sure I do it right the first-ish time, since I can't seem to find pictures of what people did before they installed a fan hood.
I plan on printing this in ColorFabb XT (White).
I printed it in XT and had no problems so far. But since I started printing a lot at 260° the part closest to the nozzle started to deform slightly. I guess the tip with kapton tape on the inside is a very good one. If you only print with PLA, you don't need the tape.
I printed this in ABS, and tried to use it to print ABS - it browned and sagged on the left side where the plastic is close to the side of the Olssen block.
I was able to use an ABS one long enough to print v2 in clear polycarbonate, at 260C. I used some adhesive aluminum duct-sealing tape to line the duct on the inside surfaces, and some Kapton tape to help hold that in place. The shiny alum should reflect some IR back at the heater block, and distribute and cool what it does absorb.
Works great: I've even printed spare ducts in polycarbonate at 260C with no apparent issues - no melting, sagging, browning, or crystallization of the material.