Fan Mount (UM2 + Olsson block)

A fan mount for Ultimaker 2 with Olsson block

3D printer parts and enhancements

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Description

This fan mount is a modification of https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-shroud.

The nozzle hole in cor3ys' design was too small to accommodate the wrench that was included with my Olsson block kit, so I enlarged it a bit. I also reshaped the air ducts to be larger and less focused on the nozzle (more like those on the stock Ultimaker 2 fan mount), and changed the screw holes to use the screws that came with the Ultimaker 2.

Before uploading, I tested the fan mount with PLA at 210 degrees without any problems. However, I later tried it with XT at 245 degrees, and experienced the dreaded Temp Error. So if you're printing at high nozzle temperatures, you may have to wait for the nozzle to get several mm off the bed before reaching max speed with the fans, otherwise the bed might deflect too much air back to the heater block.

UPDATE 1: I added v2 to the documents list which shortens the arms at the top of the mount by 2 mm. Printed with XT, it's holding up at 245 degrees and handles the temp error better.

UPDATE 2: v3 allows the option of eliminating the eight screws that hold the fans in place, borrowing from Izzy's brilliant design (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-fan-duct-v2). Printed with 0.1mm layers, the fans fit perfectly. Insert the top of the fan first, then push the bottom in.

UPDATE 3: The consensus seems to be that orienting the fans horizontally produces the best airflow, so I decided to do that with v4. However, making them completely horizontal would most likely have the fan mount crash into the side of the printer, so I went as horizontal as I could with them. I also made the right air vent wider, because I noticed I was getting less airflow on that side, due to the distance and angle.

UPDATE 4: Just for the heck of it, I decided to order some E3D silicone "socks" (http://e3d-online.com/Socks-Launch) to see if I could make them work with my fan mount. Coincidentally, they fit perfectly into the nozzle hole in my design. The only thing I needed to do was cut off the the tabs sticking up from the back of the sock (see photo), because the Olsson block is longer. Other than that, it fits right in, and the fan mount holds it in place. With the sock installed, I can run my fans as high as I want without worrying about air being deflected back up into the heater block which can cause inconsistent layers. Unfortunately, this addition defeats the quick nozzle change feature of the original fan mount design.

By the way, if you haven't upgraded your heater cartridge to 35W, I highly recommend it. Completely eliminates the temp error, even with thick layers and larger nozzle sizes.

Documents

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Comments

Mini mecha mechamechaMecha commented ago

I'm sorry that you had problems with v4. I can definitely push the head into the sides of my printer by hand, but it never does that while I'm printing. The printers are hand assembled, so there is most likely some variation in the placement of the x-axis end stop.

Mini 11754397 10206328150656315 4100330236590689548 obortek commented ago

I had the same problem as the other guy reported, that the had now hits the left and right sides. This was V4. Strange that you dont have that problem on your UM2 :) Wonder if there are different versions of UM2, should not be. Anyway I will print ver3 instead and try it out.

Mini mecha mechamechaMecha commented ago

Skipy7, the wires coming out of the fans don't have to point up when you mount them. There are small notches on the sides of the fans that will allow you to mount the fans with the wires pointing towards the back of the fan mount without pinching them. I don't know if this helps in any way, but I thought I'd mention it.

Mini mecha mechamechaMecha commented ago

I apologize for that, Skipy7. That's surprising, though, because I would expect there to be enough slack in the wires, which go all the way through the long black mesh harness and around to the back of the printer. Are you sure you can't gently pull a little more slack through there?

85fefe167747a401586e1a7525d38c75?default=blank&size=40Skipy7 commented ago

I dont think this fits UM2+ the cables on the fans are to short as the mount fits more to the front of the head assembly the fans dont reach.

Mini mecha mechamechaMecha commented ago

Thanks for the assist, Stefan! Skipy7, Here's another link that describes the basic autotune procedure:

http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning

Or, if you happen to use the tinker firmware, you can do it from the preferences/temperature control menu

Mini online avatar 2014Stefan Nicolin commented ago

Yep:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18625-solved-um2-pid-autotune-failed

85fefe167747a401586e1a7525d38c75?default=blank&size=40Skipy7 commented ago

@Stefan Nicolin Is there any resources on doing a PID autotune on a UM2+ as I could not find anything on the Ultimaker resources.

Mini online avatar 2014Stefan Nicolin commented ago

@Skipy7: If the fan mount changes, the airflow changes too. It might be that the nozzle will cool down faster because more air is directed to it. This changes the heating/cooling behaviour during a print. A new PID autotune would take it into account.

85fefe167747a401586e1a7525d38c75?default=blank&size=40Skipy7 commented ago

mechaMecha you commented on doing a PID autotune just want to know the reason behind needing to do this?

Mini mecha mechamechaMecha commented ago

Glad to hear it printed well for you, Pelphry17! Make sure you do a PID autotune with your fans set to the speed you normally print at.

0b61419eff98ddc737d5c7acee4069ae?default=blank&size=40Pelphry17 printed this ago
Carousel thumb img 0207
Printed on:
Ultimaker 2
Result:
Printed fine. Fit is great. Fans fit right in with no screws. Have not tested yet.
Feedback:
Thank you.
Mini formm hex thingyFORMM added this to the UM2GO MODS collection ago
60c8691cedfcf939fc352716b43d5248?default=blank&size=40Chris Branson added this to the Printer Parts collection ago
6c953a85cbd90df0e45e490fc1e20266?default=blank&size=40Nattaphong Sirisopanon added this to the will make (maybe) collection ago
831cbf1bd7b27be158b4a5868edf6869?default=blank&size=40Tyler Winegarner commented ago

Thanks, I'll give it a shot!

Mini mecha mechamechaMecha commented ago

Hi, Tyler. That's really strange, because I have an Ultimaker 2, so that's what this fan mount is specifically designed for. I'm sorry you had problems with the V4 design. V3 has more clearance on the sides, so I'd suggest using that instead.

831cbf1bd7b27be158b4a5868edf6869?default=blank&size=40Tyler Winegarner commented ago

I was unable to use the shroud (v4) in an ultimaker 2 without crashing the head into the sides of the printer. Is there a better version for the Ultimaker 2?

72d66c2c9807edf9818dcc765edd9b38?default=blank&size=40linanw added this to the Printer Accessories collection ago
Mini 11754397 10206328150656315 4100330236590689548 obortek added this to the UM2 collection ago
Fcb3469695c95a5e23c2429eaae67447?default=blank&size=40Adam Rękosiewicz added this to the mods collection ago
6da63cfea96aa04dcac93dd95d760c60?default=blank&size=40Patrik Marusik added this to the ultimaker 2 update collection ago
Mini um1Joerg Torhoff added this to the Ultimaker 2 collection ago
Bcbf3000397afde5dd1875cf5476e84b?default=blank&size=40wowowaa added this to the Ultimaker collection ago
8a96c63f45a1984281fa1ac2822827f3?default=blank&size=40Berni80 added this to the Ultimaker collection ago
D640d506d877c652f8bd1fe741213d9d?default=blank&size=40franknitty69 added this to the 3D Printer collection ago
6fe419e9d9e8a893bf30f7b9d92b1f68?default=blank&size=40kesjeff added this to the Ultimaker collection ago
Bc09a75579ad57acf83281f272cc3069?default=blank&size=40jpyt added this to the Ultimaker collection ago
Mini avatarRichard J. Toften printed this ago
Carousel thumb received 10153450953321722
Printed on:
Ultimaker - The Ultimaker 2
Result:
Excellent result, very happy :)
Feedback:
A little tight fit for the fans, not major, but I had to use the Dremel a bit.
B244e60f14c1ed776a771d24ac883c2b?default=blank&size=40blazewynn added this to the UM Stuff collection ago
Fb24644fcd2067592868cbed790ac481?default=blank&size=40MrTechAgent commented ago

Works great!

979dd63252db5db7ea7581bb3051a1c5?default=blank&size=40Primozz added this to the Ultimaker 2 collection ago
2348a0abc74d341fbcf3083b4f79563a?default=blank&size=40Max Winterstein added this to the Things to make collection ago
21426531408b141780392706e0e322e4?default=blank&size=40MajorKoos added this to the Ultimaker 2 Upgrades collection ago
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Mini photo 1dkaygee added this to the Things to print collection ago
5221fadbb141e8b87d65159d1d42dccb?default=blank&size=40yangts1021 added this to the UM2 collection ago
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E79e7d2ebcbd523c5eae89f2bf70775c?default=blank&size=40Urs Hunkler added this to the Ultimaker 2 collection ago
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30fbe88468deb3ea1a8e78af2cdb843f?default=blank&size=40erikgj added this to the UM2 Upgrades collection ago
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Mini waldostylewarz commented ago

No worries at all. Let me see how I could figure out where there are a few tweaks to make and I'll post them here. Nether the less, great design! Looks stealthy

Mini mecha mechamechaMecha commented ago

Sorry, stylewarz, I'm not familiar with the UM2 Extended or how it may differ from the original UM2. If you need me to make some slight modifications to the fan mount, though, let me know, and I'll see what I can do.

Mini waldostylewarz commented ago

I'm not sure what I've done wrong. But when I want to mount it to my Ultimaker2Extended the Fan Mount touches the front right screw of the hotend carage. When looking underneath the Hotend does not stick out enough. Is this an Extended "problem"?

Mini waldostylewarz printed this ago
Carousel thumb img 20151217 184914
Printed on:
Ultimaker - The Ultimaker 2
Mini aeroeye logo transparentNeil Watts added this to the Ultimaker² collection ago
Mini mecha mechamechaMecha commented ago

This is one of the main reasons I'm really happy I bought an Ultimaker. The community is very resourceful and always willing to help others. Thanks for the great comments! I almost always print in PLA, so I haven't had to add any heat resistance to my fan mount, but I'm glad you guys found an easy mod to suit your needs!

Mini online avatar 2014Stefan Nicolin commented ago

@drofnas

I didn't use aluminium tape but Kapton. Should be this one: http://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-yds/dp/B006ZFNB2I/ref=sr11

In put it only on the inside of the fan shroud where the nozzle and heater block are closest to the plastic.

42814486cc6279e9c71a75ea646e594a?default=blank&size=40John Yost Jr added this to the Printer mods collection ago
396e53047db5fedbd8c27c2ef7509f97?default=blank&size=40drofnas commented ago

@EldRick or @Nicolinux, is this the type of stuff you used to line the inner area of this fan hood? http://www.amazon.com/Duck-240225-Repair-Aluminum-1-88-Inch/dp/B0000DI82J

Did you also put Kapton take "over" all the aluminum tape, or just along the edging to help secure it in place? Wanted to make sure I do it right the first-ish time, since I can't seem to find pictures of what people did before they installed a fan hood.

I plan on printing this in ColorFabb XT (White).

9b66cb766a3e4109df475d097eeadf4a?default=blank&size=40donandi added this to the to make collection ago
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Mini waldostylewarz added this to the ultimaker collection ago
396e53047db5fedbd8c27c2ef7509f97?default=blank&size=40drofnas added this to the Printer Upgrades collection ago
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Mini online avatar 2014Stefan Nicolin commented ago

I printed it in XT and had no problems so far. But since I started printing a lot at 260° the part closest to the nozzle started to deform slightly. I guess the tip with kapton tape on the inside is a very good one. If you only print with PLA, you don't need the tape.

5fd08096b950d188364dab4e28beaa30?default=blank&size=40EldRick commented ago

I printed this in ABS, and tried to use it to print ABS - it browned and sagged on the left side where the plastic is close to the side of the Olssen block.

I was able to use an ABS one long enough to print v2 in clear polycarbonate, at 260C. I used some adhesive aluminum duct-sealing tape to line the duct on the inside surfaces, and some Kapton tape to help hold that in place. The shiny alum should reflect some IR back at the heater block, and distribute and cool what it does absorb.

Works great: I've even printed spare ducts in polycarbonate at 260C with no apparent issues - no melting, sagging, browning, or crystallization of the material.

Mini mecha mechamechaMecha published this design ago