Fan Mount (UM2 + Olsson block)
A fan mount for Ultimaker 2 with Olsson block3D printer parts and enhancements
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This fan mount is a modification of https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-shroud.
The nozzle hole in cor3ys' design was too small to accommodate the wrench that was included with my Olsson block kit, so I enlarged it a bit. I also reshaped the air ducts to be larger and less focused on the nozzle (more like those on the stock Ultimaker 2 fan mount), and changed the screw holes to use the screws that came with the Ultimaker 2.
Before uploading, I tested the fan mount with PLA at 210 degrees without any problems. However, I later tried it with XT at 245 degrees, and experienced the dreaded Temp Error. So if you're printing at high nozzle temperatures, you may have to wait for the nozzle to get several mm off the bed before reaching max speed with the fans, otherwise the bed might deflect too much air back to the heater block.
UPDATE 1: I added v2 to the documents list which shortens the arms at the top of the mount by 2 mm. Printed with XT, it's holding up at 245 degrees and handles the temp error better.
UPDATE 2: v3 allows the option of eliminating the eight screws that hold the fans in place, borrowing from Izzy's brilliant design (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-fan-duct-v2). Printed with 0.1mm layers, the fans fit perfectly. Insert the top of the fan first, then push the bottom in.
UPDATE 3: The consensus seems to be that orienting the fans horizontally produces the best airflow, so I decided to do that with v4. However, making them completely horizontal would most likely have the fan mount crash into the side of the printer, so I went as horizontal as I could with them. I also made the right air vent wider, because I noticed I was getting less airflow on that side, due to the distance and angle.
UPDATE 4: Just for the heck of it, I decided to order some E3D silicone "socks" (http://e3d-online.com/Socks-Launch) to see if I could make them work with my fan mount. Coincidentally, they fit perfectly into the nozzle hole in my design. The only thing I needed to do was cut off the the tabs sticking up from the back of the sock (see photo), because the Olsson block is longer. Other than that, it fits right in, and the fan mount holds it in place. With the sock installed, I can run my fans as high as I want without worrying about air being deflected back up into the heater block which can cause inconsistent layers. Unfortunately, this addition defeats the quick nozzle change feature of the original fan mount design.
By the way, if you haven't upgraded your heater cartridge to 35W, I highly recommend it. Completely eliminates the temp error, even with thick layers and larger nozzle sizes.
UPDATE 5: I decided to widen the base of the fan mount (front to back) by a few mm to cool a wider area. As a positive side-effect, the small shelf extending from the back does a better job of shielding the heater block from deflected air, and it doesn't need to stick out as much, making it less prone to melting/sagging. Printed in ABS, it holds up very well. I've been running this latest version (v5) for quite a while now, and it's been working very nicely for me. I don't use the silicone "socks" anymore, because I don't think they make an appreciable difference with this new design in terms of protecting the heater block from air deflections. I also prefer having the quick nozzle change option. For anyone who has problems with the normal version hitting the side of the printer, I've also uploaded a "narrow" version which uses the original, more vertical fan angle.
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Skipy7, I'm sorry you're having trouble with my design. I'm not sure why there would be a lot of vibration noise on low speed. I've never had that problem. The only thing I can think of is perhaps the fans may be a bit loose. Are the fans fairly tight when you insert them into the mount? As far as the mount hitting the left side of the printer, you may be able to shift the x end stop a bit. If not, I would recommend using an older version of the fan mount (v3).
Installed this and got the fan cable longer on my UM2+ but having 2 issues when it homes the fan hits the left side of the printer, and when the fans are on low speed they buzz and on 100% they add alot of vibration and makes lots of noise because of that. Is there anyway to fix these issues.
- Printed on:
- Ultimaker 2 Extended
- Printed v3 to help with hotend cooling issues after installing the Olsson Block. I'm using cheaper and larger exterior diameter nozzles so after it was printed I drilled out the hole a bit bigger. Printed in ColorFabb PHA Fluorescent Green it seems to get a little soft at the front near the hotend, but hasnt failed yet. Printing has improved, along with the changes to the fan speed and cut in height on 2.0mm.
- Great Model, thanks!
I'm sorry that you had problems with v4. I can definitely push the head into the sides of my printer by hand, but it never does that while I'm printing. The printers are hand assembled, so there is most likely some variation in the placement of the x-axis end stop.
I had the same problem as the other guy reported, that the had now hits the left and right sides. This was V4. Strange that you dont have that problem on your UM2 :) Wonder if there are different versions of UM2, should not be. Anyway I will print ver3 instead and try it out.
Skipy7, the wires coming out of the fans don't have to point up when you mount them. There are small notches on the sides of the fans that will allow you to mount the fans with the wires pointing towards the back of the fan mount without pinching them. I don't know if this helps in any way, but I thought I'd mention it.
I apologize for that, Skipy7. That's surprising, though, because I would expect there to be enough slack in the wires, which go all the way through the long black mesh harness and around to the back of the printer. Are you sure you can't gently pull a little more slack through there?
I dont think this fits UM2+ the cables on the fans are to short as the mount fits more to the front of the head assembly the fans dont reach.
Thanks for the assist, Stefan! Skipy7, Here's another link that describes the basic autotune procedure:
Or, if you happen to use the tinker firmware, you can do it from the preferences/temperature control menu
@Stefan Nicolin Is there any resources on doing a PID autotune on a UM2+ as I could not find anything on the Ultimaker resources.
@Skipy7: If the fan mount changes, the airflow changes too. It might be that the nozzle will cool down faster because more air is directed to it. This changes the heating/cooling behaviour during a print. A new PID autotune would take it into account.
mechaMecha you commented on doing a PID autotune just want to know the reason behind needing to do this?
Glad to hear it printed well for you, Pelphry17! Make sure you do a PID autotune with your fans set to the speed you normally print at.
- Printed on:
- Ultimaker 2
- Printed fine. Fit is great. Fans fit right in with no screws. Have not tested yet.
- Thank you.
Thanks, I'll give it a shot!
Hi, Tyler. That's really strange, because I have an Ultimaker 2, so that's what this fan mount is specifically designed for. I'm sorry you had problems with the V4 design. V3 has more clearance on the sides, so I'd suggest using that instead.
I was unable to use the shroud (v4) in an ultimaker 2 without crashing the head into the sides of the printer. Is there a better version for the Ultimaker 2?
- Printed on:
- Ultimaker - The Ultimaker 2
- Excellent result, very happy :)
- A little tight fit for the fans, not major, but I had to use the Dremel a bit.
No worries at all. Let me see how I could figure out where there are a few tweaks to make and I'll post them here. Nether the less, great design! Looks stealthy
Sorry, stylewarz, I'm not familiar with the UM2 Extended or how it may differ from the original UM2. If you need me to make some slight modifications to the fan mount, though, let me know, and I'll see what I can do.
I'm not sure what I've done wrong. But when I want to mount it to my Ultimaker2Extended the Fan Mount touches the front right screw of the hotend carage. When looking underneath the Hotend does not stick out enough. Is this an Extended "problem"?
- Printed on:
- Ultimaker - The Ultimaker 2
This is one of the main reasons I'm really happy I bought an Ultimaker. The community is very resourceful and always willing to help others. Thanks for the great comments! I almost always print in PLA, so I haven't had to add any heat resistance to my fan mount, but I'm glad you guys found an easy mod to suit your needs!
I didn't use aluminium tape but Kapton. Should be this one: http://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-yds/dp/B006ZFNB2I/ref=sr_1_1
In put it only on the inside of the fan shroud where the nozzle and heater block are closest to the plastic.
@EldRick or @Nicolinux, is this the type of stuff you used to line the inner area of this fan hood? http://www.amazon.com/Duck-240225-Repair-Aluminum-1-88-Inch/dp/B0000DI82J
Did you also put Kapton take "over" all the aluminum tape, or just along the edging to help secure it in place? Wanted to make sure I do it right the first-ish time, since I can't seem to find pictures of what people did before they installed a fan hood.
I plan on printing this in ColorFabb XT (White).
I printed it in XT and had no problems so far. But since I started printing a lot at 260° the part closest to the nozzle started to deform slightly. I guess the tip with kapton tape on the inside is a very good one. If you only print with PLA, you don't need the tape.
I printed this in ABS, and tried to use it to print ABS - it browned and sagged on the left side where the plastic is close to the side of the Olssen block.
I was able to use an ABS one long enough to print v2 in clear polycarbonate, at 260C. I used some adhesive aluminum duct-sealing tape to line the duct on the inside surfaces, and some Kapton tape to help hold that in place. The shiny alum should reflect some IR back at the heater block, and distribute and cool what it does absorb.
Works great: I've even printed spare ducts in polycarbonate at 260C with no apparent issues - no melting, sagging, browning, or crystallization of the material.