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This is a beautiful, geometric wallet with 3D printed "fabric" that folds at the hinges. All these little hinges are printed in place so minimal assembly is required.Fashion
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Inspired by Issey Miyake and Nervous System. Made with Blender and printed on an Ultimaker 2.
I’ve been using the wallet version for almost two years now. I get compliments on it regularly and it's super easy to open and close due to the magnetic clasp. The clasp is magnetized so the bags and wallets just snap shut, because nobody likes fiddling around with buttons and buckles.
Each side of the bag is printed in one piece. The hinges on each surface are printed in place, so the “fabric” moves and bends right out of the printer. The two sides are then manually assembled together using 3D printed components that snap into place.
You can also adjust the size of the wallet by copying/pasting the squares and triangles.
Also see related design Mixee Bag: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mixee-bag/
Materials and methods
1. 3D PRINT THE PIECES
Print wallet_side.stl twice using this setting: 0.2mm layer height, 0.6mm top/bottom (OR 0.4mm bottom and 0.6mm top), no support or layer adhesion.
TIP: Use heated glass plate to achieve glossy, candy-shell finish.
Print the rest of the components using this setting: 0.2mm layer height, 0.6mm top/bottom (OR 0.4mm bottom and 0.6mm top), with a brim of 5 loops.
NOTE: I included two sets of wallet_side_stoppers_xxx.stl. These are the plugs that go into the side hinges. There's one type that's easier to print, but you'll need to use superglue to get it to adhere to the wallet. There's another type that's trickier to print, but you can just snap it into place (no superglue needed). I would try the snap version first, and if it's not working use the superglue version.
Take the two sides and face them together (bottom layers face outwards). Insert the skewers (the long rods) into the side hinges. Either snap the stoppers or glue the stoppers (see note above) to hold the skewers in place.
Insert magnet (neodymium cylindrical magnets, 1/4" diameter x 1/4" length) into the clasp, and super glue the magnet stoppers in place. You can stack smaller magnets. For example, you can use two cylindrical magnets of 1/4" diameters x 1/8" length to achieve the same strength and magnetic effect. The wallet should just snap together in place afterwards.
- Printed on:
- prusa i3 mk3
- Final result is satisfying. I look forward to trying different sizes and materials.
- the missing hole on the bottom, tips on materials
Overall an amazing print!
I used a Prusa i3 mk3 running Prusa silver PLA. Only had the printer two days so there was a definite learning curve.
Notes on printing:
Even with a heated bed, I only achieved a smooth, not candy-like, finish. Youtube videos plus some fiddling with the print settings in slic3r did allow me to improve over the quality of previous prints.
You may note that the center bottom joint between the two sides does not have a hole for a skewer to go through. Be smart and fix the design before printing, or be like me and "fix" it with a dremel. I did log an issue for this.
Notes on assembly:
Each parts file prints one more component than you need. Yay!
I'd recommend giving the plug-in parts a pass, and go straight to the glue-in parts. The plug-ins fell out (a bunch) and made the wallet pretty loose and rattle-y. If you do try the plug-ins, note that the holes for the skewers are wider in one dimension, side-to-side. The plugs also have a wider dimension, try to match them.
The center bottom joint prints with both ends filled. Okay. So you go in with a dremel (you have a dremel, right?), and you drill out a hole on ONE side of the joint. Keep in mind that a screw dremel will pull out filaments, and a buffing dremel will melt the filament. I used screw/cylindrical buffer/conical buffer to make the hole. Get the edges of your cone-shaped hole all the way out to the side, and constantly check fitment against the glue-in plug.
Order of joint assembly matters! Do the center bottom joint, then the other two bottom joints, then the sides from bottom to top.
The side print needs to be pretty flexible to access all the joints. Gently bend all the joins in the side print back and forth to make sure they're set to go. You can flex the wallet sufficiently to expose each joint when you insert the skewer. The sticking point is the mitered corners.
To insert the skewers on the bottom three joints, you basically need to assemble the wallet inside-out, that is, right sides together. Once all the components are glued, gently move the corners past each other to rotate the sides right-side-out.
Speaking of glueing, get that paper towel ready. Or be like me and have superglue hands.
To set the plugs on the joints, I used a circle of superglue on the inside bevel of the joint. Press the plug in to set and hold it there a bit, you don't want to accidentally glue the joins on the side itself, and you don't want the plug to stick out much, if at all.
Use the spare skewer to stick the working skewer all the way down in the joint before applying glue.
For the magnets on the latch, insert them from the outside before glueing the plug.
Make sure they're inserted sticky sides together, not repelling sides together!!!!!!!
The latch plugs will go in easier one way than the other. On my print, the print-surface-facing sides were on the outside of the latch.
To glue the latch plugs, put a slightly heavier ring of glue than you used on the joints on the inside rim of the latch, then slide the plug in.
Hold the wallet on its side so the glue drips into the cavity, not out of it.
DID YOU MAKE IT??!!!??!!!??!!??!
now go drink some champagne straight from the bottle to celebrate! like me.
- Printed on:
- The wallet is nice. It's pretty large — fits 15 plastic cards, or 2 Benchys plus a Marvin. It's a challenging print and I didn't make it too well, but it works and looks good.
I love this. I don't think my vanilla DaVinci 1.0 can handle it properly though... Printed looking fine, but all of the sections snapped apart rather than bending.
Unfortunately didn't work for me. My printer cannot go down lower than 1 mm on layers, so I'm sure if that had anything to do with it. The interlocking print turned out fine, it was just the outside (connecting) pieces that snapped off the main side panel. I'm going to reprint using more robust settings and see if that makes a difference.
Hey Nancy, very nice model. I just printed it. How do you insert a thin rod at the bottom center? There are no noles on the outer hinges. Also I have like two thin rods and two stoppers left over because of that. Is this intended?