Shoe Loader v10

Pump Paintball Force-feed Loader Using Rotor internals

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    Description

    UPDATED FROM v08. Please check out my pbnation thread for info on the change from v08: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?p=97388690#post97388690

    This is a work in progress! No guarantees.

    Disclaimer

    This is not a simple print project. Do not attempt this as your printer's first prints. You will fail. A successful print requires a well calibrated printer and thorough knowledge of infill, support, and bridging.

    Design Blog

    Please visit my pbnation thread to see more details on the design/thought/test/specs/etc
    http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=4516961

    Upper versions

    The "universal" version takes a universal speedfeed such as the Exalt or GXG speedfeed.
    The "gxg" version is designed for lower frontal profile and requires modification to a GXG speedfeed, using only the rubber.

    Fit

    The Upper and Lower are designed with 0 margin front to back and 0.5mm margin side to side. This means calibration, trimming, and cleanup is required for a good fit. Without a good fit, the shell is more susceptible to damage when hit.

    Alignment pins

    Alignment pins are provided for gluing the feedneck to the Lower half. Sizing on the pins depends on printer accuracy and bridging capabilities. Actual size of cavity between the parts is 5mm diameter, 2mm height. Anything ~4-4.5mm diameter and 1-1.5mm height should work.

    Slice settings

    This is intended to be printed such that there is at least 4mm worth of solid plastic wall. Each slicer has it's own way of defining that, so make sure you know what you're doing. Supports are needed in several areas. Be careful not to get support in the nut holes of the Upper, or be prepared to dig it out with tiny tools. I use S3D, which allows me to define support areas. If you don't have S3D, Meshmixer should work too. Auto-support generation will be tough to clean out the small holes for the 4-40 nuts.

    Material

    I printed and tested this design in PLA, to decent success. ABS may be more impact resistant, but I had delaminating issues. Choice is yours.

    Tools Required

    • 3D printer
    • Philips head screwdriver (for flip tab screws)
    • Precision philips head screwdriver (for 4-40 assembly screws)
    • Sandpaper
    • Precision knife (eg. x-acto)
    • Needle nose pliers
    • Drill (optional)
    • Round file (optional)

    Materials Required

    • 1 1/4 4-40 pan head screw (x2)
    • 4-40 nut (x2)
    • Gel type CA glue (eg. Gorilla Super Glue Gel, Loctite Super Glue Gel Control, etc.)
    • Craft glue (eg. elmers)
    • Loctite
    • Dye Rotor parts needed
    • (check https://shop.dyepaintball.com/collections/replacement-loader-parts/)
    • Anti Jam Pull Tab
    • x2 Locking clip with screw and oring (red clip that holds everything together)
    • Bottom Tray (black cup)
    • Bottom Tray Gears (red main gear with white small gears)
    • Center Arm (red spinny thing)
    • Top Eight Ball (black octopus)
    • Main motor drive and battery tray
    • For low profile _sf version:
    • 1/2 4-40 pan head screw (x3)
    • 4-40 nut (x3)

    Assembly

    1. Print parts, remove supports
    2. Poke out the print bridges blocking the 4-40 screw holes using a screw or precision screwdriver. (2 holes in Lower, 2 (or 5) holes in Upper)
    3. Test fit between the Lower and Upper, noting sources of friction. Trim, sand, cut out sources of friction.
    4. Test fit of Button and Antijam, noting sources of friction. Trim, sand, file sources of friction.
    5. Test fit of Feedneck, Alignment pins and Lower half. Trim excess.
    6. Slightly scuff bottom of Lower half and top of Feedneck (this allows for better glue adhesion)
    7. Using alignment pins as guides, glue the Feedneck to Lower half. Apply pressure as needed for curing.
    8. Disassemble Rotor. Be careful not to lose the button if you want to use the stock rotor again. Antijam will need needlenose pliers.
    9. Carefully screw the Locking Clips into the Lower half. These screws will tap into plastic, so do not overtorque. The Locking Clips should have similar friction/feel to stock Rotor when assembled correctly. Leave in "open" position.
    10. Place Antijam and Button in place.
    11. Place Motor Drive and Battery Tray in place with a back then front rocking motion to lightly snap the assembly in place. Verify Button and Antijam function properly.
    12. Drop in Bottom Tray Gears.
    13. Drop in Bottom Tray.
    14. Drop in Center Arm and Eight Ball.
    15. Move Locking Clip to "locked" position and verify it properly holds motor drive and eight ball assembly in place without a lot of friction.
    16. Retest Lower and Upper half fit. Upper should just barely clear batteries. Trim as necessary.
    17. Drop a small amount of elmers glue in nut holes of Upper. Insert nuts and screw in 4-40 screws to hold them in place while the glue dries.
    18. Reassemble Lower and Upper, secure with 1 1/4 4-40 screws using loctite.
    19. Attach speedfeed.
    20. Play paintball.

    GXG

    GXG upper requires some cuts in the rubber in order to fit. see pic.

    Documents

    Issues

    Issues are used to track todos, bugs or requests. To get started, you could create an issue.

    Comments

    Cd45b240623f19d070e22ea97d987f40?default=blank&size=40Brian Bowling added this to the Charlie collection ago
    4468abd69a7ba6c36a59b2f82b2daffb?default=blank&size=40CholoMarijuano added this to the Paintball collection ago
    523be762381a54fe7d11d6d685274562?default=blank&size=40dapoofyhairdude published this design ago