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Temp Controlled Build Enclosure for UM2
Regulates temperature for better ABS prints etc.
3D printer parts and enhancements
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Description
Use
Set start temp at the desired temperature and stop temperature to 1 degree above that. (Picture shows set at 45 degrees with current temp at 25 degrees.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-C-99-C-DC-12V-Intelligent-Digital-Led-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-/321723841989
Materials and methods
Parts
1200 X 600 X 3mm Sheet (PVC, Acrylic etc.)
12V 40mm Fan
12V Power Supply
Chassis socket (to suit 12V Power Supply plug)
temperature controller on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-C-99-C-DC-12V-Intelligent-Digital-Led-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-/321723841989
Clear Drying Glue
5 metres 6mm X 9mm white door seal strip
Clear Packaging tape
Masking Tape or similar
4 - 20mm X 4mm Screws
67 - 10mm X 3mm Screws
9 - 16mm X 3mm Screws
3 - 25mm X 3mm Screws
9 – 3mm nylock nuts
3mm washers
2 magnets to hold door one needs to be thin.
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Instructions
Download Pictures for Instructions zip file and STLs zip file below.
I printed all parts in ABS with 2mm walls and thicker for hinges
Cut out panels from sheet to nearest mm
Print joiners, all front door parts, door frame mounts and joiner first
Mount front door hinges by replacing current UM screw with a 16mm screw on each one
Use a 16mm Screw for the front door handle.
Glue a thin magnet to the back of the door handle and tape a magnet behind the UM front panel.
Use masking tape to hold panels together making sure that the top panel sits between the left and right panel and not on top of them
Mark holes and drill panels making sure Joiner L4 is positioned in the gap of the cable ducts
Mount joiners and door frame mounts with 10mm screws on panels
Use clear packaging tape to join and seal panels where desired
Glue Top Door frame to joiners right way up and don’t use screws
Put Door seal on the Top door frame
Tape top door in place with masking tape and use the Top Hinges Template to mark mounting holes for the hinges.
Use 6 X 16mm screws for the Top Body Hinges
Mount Left handle with 3 X 25mm screws and Nyloc Nuts
Thread thermocouple through the Thermocouple holder and attach it to the 25mm Left handle mounting bolts with nyloc nuts.
Push thermocouple far enough onto its holder so that the print head will miss it in the fully left position
Mount right handle with 10mm screws and nyloc nuts
Mount the 40mm fan to the fan shroud using 4mm screws
If printing in ABS use enclosure as is to print tall parts like the Bowden grommets
Ground wire goes from the Power Socket to the -DC terminal on the Temperature Controller and the Black wire on the fan.
12V positive from power socket goes to the +DC terminal on the Temperature Controller and to one side of the relay contacts.
The other side of the relay contacts goes to the red wire of the fan.
Glue the cable ducts in place
Duct Lid slides in position from underneath
Un-attach the Bowden cable(s)
Mount the Right Bowden grommets flush with the outside panel of the UM then the left flush with the outside of the UM and with the print head cables passing through the slot.
Join the grommets together with the 2 X 10mm screws there will probably be a gap between them.
Documents
Issues
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Comments
Masher added this to the 3D Upgrade collection ago
MadZeus added this to the Enclosures collection ago
Q3Soft printed this ago
- Printed on:
- ultimaker 3
- Result:
- I have had to adapt the fixation on the ends of the Bowden mount to adapt the design and use on my Ultimaker 3.
Zoran Vila added this to the ZV Ideas & Inspirations collection ago
owen commented agoYep, that's right. Good luck and leave any questions here if you have any.
rebekah3505 commented agohiya,
sorry I thought it has it's own heating system. but I am guessing it is heated by the build plate and hot end.
I am going to give this a go.
gbLenaPark added this to the Saved collection agoowen commented agoHi Becky
I assume you mean fahrenheit as 100 degrees Celcius would be way too hot and it wouldn't get there.
All these temps are in Celcius.
On a 16 Degree day. It took 30 minutes to increase by 22 degrees to 38 degrees. This was with the bed heating to 100 degrees and the nozzle at 250 degrees printing ABS.
The bed took 12 minutes to get to temperature.
It will usually get to 45 degrees except it might fall a couple of degrees short on a very cold night.
I usually start printing straight away without waiting for it to reach 45 as the initial layers benifit from the heat from the heated bed.
I'm getting good results printing ABS with it set at 45 degrees.
Owen
Young Joon Kim added this to the Ultimaker2 collection agorebekah3505 commented agoHiya,
I was wondering about the temp controller. How long does it take to heat up to 99 deg in the chamber?
many thanks
becky
Erik de Bruijn added this to the Ultimaker 2 upgrades! collection ago
Reiner Bühl added this to the Ultimaker2 collection agoowen published this design ago