UM bearing blocks with a twist

3D printer parts and enhancements

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UPDATE 20.8.2014: Added GT2 belt clamps. These clamps provide NO tension, so they will work with 303 tooth GT2 based setups. Note that if they seem thin for you, you can always just scale them up a bit in Z if that seems necessary.

UPDATE 26.12.2013: The parts that engage the endstops have been widened to 10 mm to compensate for the blocks being 2mm wider towards the center of the printer, so that the default endswitch positions still work. All the files have been updated accordingly.

I love experimenting with my Ultimaker. Unfortunately when you want to do that with different extruders (like non-bowden ones) or printheads, you must disassemble a lot of things and it takes too much time. Not any more. These blocks allow you to switch printheads by removing 8 easily accessible bolts (leaving everything else in place) and twisting the print head to remove it together with the 6mm rods. They also increase the rigidity of your whole XY stage, and provide decent belt tension. 
You can find detailed instructions here:

Materials and methods

- 12 printed parts
- 8x M3x20 bolt
- 8x M3x30 bolt
- 16x M3 nut



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Mini sany0007calinb commented ago

Okay, I made the CAD changes but won't have time to print my re-spin for a few days. Here's what it looks like:

Mini sany0007calinb commented ago

Wow! Like all your projects, this is simply fantastic design work! However, I'm not too keen on giving up even 4 mm of x and y travel. I use up all my UMO real estate far too often and wish for more already!

Do you really need so much 6 mm rod engagement? Thanks for providing a .stp file, because I'm offsetting the faces by 2 mm and the screw holes by 1 mm (to keep them centered on the faces). Hence, I can try your design without giving up any X/Y travel. (Actually, I might be able to gain a little). To anchor the 6 mm rods more securely with my 2 mm shorter twister blocks, I might also try to add an extension on the twister block rod clamp that fits in the twister block rod assembly channel and provide additional support at the very end of the rod. The twister block slots are 2.5 mm deep so I can "get back" all of the 2 mm I'm removing plus 0.5 mm more, assuming that the rods are long enough to bottom in the channel against the twister block! If they are too short to benefit from this idea, I'll just buy longer 6 mm rods and custom cut them to fit tightly.

A picture tells 1000 words so I'll post a "re-spin" place keeper to illustrate my idea just as soon as I finish the CAD modifications.

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Mini pic 006Amedee printed this ago
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Printed on:
Ultimaker Original+
Chopmeister's twisterblocks
Mini stroken bos emblemMunjeni printed this ago
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Printed on:
Ultimaker Original+
Printed in Carbon XT and Transparent Orange
Mini stroken bos emblemMunjeni printed this ago
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Printed on:
Ultimaker Original+
Printed in Carbon XT and Transparent Orange
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Printed on:
ultimaker original
very stable and nice looking
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Printed on:
Ultimaker - Ultimaker Original
perfectly usable parts
Twisterblocks on my Ultimaker
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