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TwisterBlocks
UM bearing blocks with a twist
3D printer parts and enhancements
Creative Commons Attribution Share Alike
Commercial use is allowed, you must attribute the creator, you may remix this work and the remixed work should be made available under this license.
Description
UPDATE 26.12.2013: The parts that engage the endstops have been widened to 10 mm to compensate for the blocks being 2mm wider towards the center of the printer, so that the default endswitch positions still work. All the files have been updated accordingly.
I love experimenting with my Ultimaker. Unfortunately when you want to do that with different extruders (like non-bowden ones) or printheads, you must disassemble a lot of things and it takes too much time. Not any more. These blocks allow you to switch printheads by removing 8 easily accessible bolts (leaving everything else in place) and twisting the print head to remove it together with the 6mm rods. They also increase the rigidity of your whole XY stage, and provide decent belt tension.
You can find detailed instructions here: http://chopmeister.blogspot.com/2013/12/twisterblocks.html
Materials and methods
- 12 printed parts
- 8x M3x20 bolt
- 8x M3x30 bolt
- 16x M3 nut
Documents
Comments
Okay, I made the CAD changes but won't have time to print my re-spin for a few days. Here's what it looks like:
Wow! Like all your projects, this is simply fantastic design work! However, I'm not too keen on giving up even 4 mm of x and y travel. I use up all my UMO real estate far too often and wish for more already!
Do you really need so much 6 mm rod engagement? Thanks for providing a .stp file, because I'm offsetting the faces by 2 mm and the screw holes by 1 mm (to keep them centered on the faces). Hence, I can try your design without giving up any X/Y travel. (Actually, I might be able to gain a little). To anchor the 6 mm rods more securely with my 2 mm shorter twister blocks, I might also try to add an extension on the twister block rod clamp that fits in the twister block rod assembly channel and provide additional support at the very end of the rod. The twister block slots are 2.5 mm deep so I can "get back" all of the 2 mm I'm removing plus 0.5 mm more, assuming that the rods are long enough to bottom in the channel against the twister block! If they are too short to benefit from this idea, I'll just buy longer 6 mm rods and custom cut them to fit tightly.
A picture tells 1000 words so I'll post a "re-spin" place keeper to illustrate my idea just as soon as I finish the CAD modifications.