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Alternative UM2 Feeder - version two
Another alternative to the standard feeder on the UM2.Read the instructions!
3D printer parts and enhancements
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Description
Hopefully this will help clear some things up.
Update 2015-02-19: Added a new body with a cutout to use the grommet from the "new" feeders instead of a piece of bowden.
Update 2014-11-15: Uploaded length variations for the yoke, 35-40mm. I also added a zip with another version that has an included spacer for M16 screws so that you don't need to use washers. Six lengths included in the zip.
Update 2014-09-14: I updated the yoke a bit and made it longer as I noticed it was too short for NinjaFlex for me.
Update 2014-07-29: I've re-designed parts of the feeder to get rid of a
few parts that were causing people problems and also to strengthen it
slightly.
Right, here's my second (public) attempt at a new feeder design for the UM2. My goals were:
- Able to release the filament for quick and easy change between filaments.
- Re-use original parts from the old feeder.
- Try to minimize friction
- Supply additional guidance for flexible filaments (untested at this point and optional to install).
I've
been printing with this design for about 20 hours now without any
issues. That's not a guarantee that you wont have issues, no guarantees
here.
Instructions:
All parts should be printed in the
orientation that I've supplied them in. You should not use any support,
all the support is built into the files and should be fairly easy to
remove after printing. I would recommend a decent amount of infill for
strength, I've used 20% so far. I've used 0.08mm or 0.1mm layer height
and printed it fairly slow at 40mm/s.
On the arm there's a hole
for a nut. If it's tight, you can force it into place by inserting a
screw from the other side and screw it tight. If it's annoyingly loose
and wont stay in place once you're trying to secure the spring just use a
dab of glue. I managed to get it done with a nut that was floating
completely free in there though, your patience may vary ;)
On the
back of the case, at the entrance you'll find a cutout where you should
insert a short piece of bowden tube (you can cut off a small section
from your own tube, it will not hurt anything). Force it in with a
screwdriver or whatever and it'll snap into place.
You may find that the knurled sleeve isn't centered well with the bearing. Loosen the set screw that holds it in place and slide it in a few millimeters if needed.
Materials and methods
The parts from the old feeder plus one 30mm M3 and one 14(ish)mm M3 (I shimmed mine with a few washers to get the right length).
A very small section of the existing bowden tube for the entrance to the feeder (optional but recommended).
Documents
Issues
Issues are used to track todos, bugs or requests. To get started, you could create an issue.
Comments
thank you very much :-)
@peter-bohn Sorry about that. Youtube made all unlisted videos before 2017 private for some security reason. It should be viewable for you now.
I can't watch the video. Youtube says it's private?
Hi Nathan, that spring is not sold separately as a spare part. However I am sure we have them lying around on the "scrap heap", so if you send me your address in a personal message, I would be happy to put one in an envelope and send it to you.
Kind regards,
Bas
Where can a get a replacement spring for the feeder assembly of my UM2?
Thank you !!!!! Make Ultimaker 2 Extended Works Great Again ! I did print your alternate feeder tonight and I now enjoy the sound of printing :-) ... Two small comments : I had to find a new spring as the one of the original feeder did not work. I had also to printed a few yokes before finding the right size. But that said, it's a great design and idea. The manual clutch will also be helpful to switch with 1.75mm filament for my UM2. Thank you !!!
what is the "Feeder Step" zipfile added on february with .STEP files?
Several ways to fix the direction issue.
Easy way is to just mirror the body and reprint so that you are using the opposite side of the drive. One side goes up, the other goes down.
You can change your firmware to Tinkergnome. There is an option in Tinkergnome for drive direction.
Or you can always make a cable that goes inline with your stepper and reverses the wires to drive the stepper in reverse.
My guess is that you have an Ultimaker 2+. This was designed for the older Ultimaker 2 and shouldn't be used with the 2+. Either that or you've mistakenly installed the wrong firmware.
I have installed this on my printer but the motor has reversed direction so the filament is no longer going to the correct direction. Do you have any suggestions?
If you have a gear on your motor shaft, you have an UM2+. This feeder is designed for the UM2.
Can anyone tell me how to get the plastic gear-like piece off the motor so I can put the textured metal piece on? Or am I way off with how I think this must be installed?
After having printing one for my UM3 after having feeder-issues with PolyFlex, it stroke me that this feeder might not be suitable to fit on a UM3, so hence my question: can I put this on a UM3 without any modifications, and can I expect trouble from doing so?
Thanks for designing, though the grommet version is too weak where the new gap is. Printed three now with ever increasing strength settings but the bottom 'nut hole' snaps off every time with standard PLA, even with plenty of walls and fill. :(
Hey Robert! I love this feeder and we recently got an SLA printer. I don't suppose you have a support-free version? The supports don't come off quite so easily with an SLA part, but I suspect the resin print will stand the test of time more than my first PLA version!
I did, for some reason it appears that filament is pushing against the
bottom of the bowden tube and rhen causing it to push out. I replaced the
bowden tube today and its still happening along with under extrusion.
Did you put the white bowden grip and the blue bowden clip to keep it in place? Both pieces are part of the original feeder
I just printed and installed this yesterday and for some reason my bowden tube keeps poping out of the feeder? Did I install something wrong?
The bearing already part of the feeder
what type of bearing is used? thank you
Ah, I somehow missed that. Ended up taking the metal ring from the bottom of the stock feeder and putting it in Roberts feeder. Works like a charm; no more noise!
Did you place the piece of bowden tube at the bottom of the feeder? Read the instructions and look at the video around 23-24 seconds
Printed this on my UM2Go and have been using it for a couple days. I printed and tested all of the different yokes and settled on the 38mm. I'm having an issue where I get random squeaky noises from the feeder, almost like a creaking sound, but not always. Is this normal or is it indicative of a less than optimized spring tension? I am also using the snap on guide.
Does anyone know what size the bearing is that goes on the left hand side?
Which should I use between these Feeder V6 Yoke?
I'm editing to use filaments from 1,75mm
start with the normal one. Feeder V6 Yoke And Hub
Awesome design but the different yoke sizes are throwing me for a loop. What would be the recommended one to use?
Depends. If you usually print with PLA then print this piece with PLA. Over time you will have some material from the feeder get in the tube so if you printed it in ABS it might clog the nozzle because your printing to low to melt it.
Quick Question. What is the recommended material to use when making/printing this feeder? PLA? ABS?
Hello ! :-) You could say to cushion size ?? D. D. internal and external width! Thank you ! Alex Elvis3D
Hi, what software you used to design it? Looks good!
Thanks - that makes sense! I have added it to the body, so far it works as well. Thanks to !Robert!.
its optional. Its not needed except with flexible filament. Its easy to snap on when needed.
have printed it, looks very good - The idea of the "snap on guide" is not clear for me. Why did you not integrate the guide into feeder body? If it would be integrated, you can see the filament and notice if the feeder grinds into the filament. Maybe I missed a point ?!
Use this mod if you want to use this nice extruder with flexible material printing (like ninjaflex): https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-straight-tube-flexible-filament-spool-holder
I recently updated Ultimaker 2, an extruder with Olsson block with different nozzles, but the feeder that I have installed this alternative UM2 Feeder - version two of IRobertI does not charge a PLA filament.The motor filament motor is idling.What can I do? I have to change with new feeder? Thank you very much.
I wanted that too, but things had to be made way too thin and flimsy to do it because of the edge of the wall sticking out.
One wish i still have is to turn the construction so the handle and the tension-nut is easier to operate.

- Printed on:
- ultimaker 2
- Result:
- This is e very nice adjustable extruder.
- Feedback:
- I made some small modifications, A gave it a metal sleeve to prevent small pieces of plastic wearing off and spoil the color of the print. the metal seems a bit to long but the length made it easier to print soft filament. To do so you also have to change the tension so a small knurled wheel works better.
Very nice, i cannot believe ultimaker design their feeder that way, this is what i need. I cannot believe ultimaker 2 plus did not copy this, why? they copy olsson block, why not this? they expect us to unscrew and tickle with the stepper motor everytime we have problem with feeding and need to clean it. Everybody should change their ultimaker 2 with this and olsson block. You just need to buy one 40-50mm and 15mm M3 screws and M3 nut from the hardware store.
I tried that one before and did have issues with it. I couldn't get the bowden tube piece sit correctly and it caused me some grinding because of that. I have one version with grommet which works fine but now I need a second one but seemed to be unable to print a reliable one anymore.
Use "Feeder V6 Body" instead and insert a piece of bowden tube instead of the grommet. That version is better IMHO and will be a lot stronger in that area so you shouldn't have any problems with breakage at that point.
I have a lot of problems with the body with grommet. It breaks at the "bridge" where the grommet is inserted. This happens often already when removing the support structure in the screw hole next to it and even before inserting the grommet. I tried ABS and PLA with varying infill values. Would it be possible for you to upload a version that is a little bit stronger in that area?
- Printed on:
- Shapeways
- Result:
- I had printed and used this design on my Ultimaker for a while and its awesome. Since I always wanted to print something in metal, and this is so useful I decided to send it to shapeways and have it printed in metal. Its interesting to see how the material informs the shape as it could be much less bulky done in metal
- Feedback:
- Thanks for this awesome design!
Happened to me, also. One of the upgrades I added was https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-iroberti-s-feeder-v6-yoke-and-hub-with-guide, which completely solved the problem
After several hours of succesfull prints the filament starts to slip inwards from the bearing... :-( Happened after filament change. I am using the low friction spoolholder as well.
Any ideas whats going wrong would be highly appreceated!
I have been using this alternate feeder (extruder), with a couple of minor upgrades, for a couple of months now, and it's brilliant. Kudos to @IRobertI - thanks for completely solving my underextrusion issues!
You just solved my filament grinding problem. I have been struggling with this for months. Thank you so much!
I have a UM2 GO. Would I need to print this mirror image for it to work correctly? The feed on the UM2 GO is on the other side of the chasis. Really looking forward to trying this!
is it okay to print these parts in PLA?
Works great. Thanks Robert. On a UM2 i use the 38mm yoke-n-hub as suggested by Robert. The original feeder's bearing is fastened with a 10mm piece of filament, that fits tight in the hub and yoke - no use for a bolt there. The yoke itself is fastened with a 40mm x 3mm bolt and some rings to make it all fit
That is in fact the only part you have to buy with this design: a 40mm x 3mm bolt and some rings.
Works great. Thanks Robert.
On a UM2 i use the 38mm yoke-n-hub as suggested by Robert. The original feeder's bearing is fastened with a 10mm piece of filament, that fits tight in the hub and yoke - no use for a bolt there. The yoke itself is fastened with a 40mm x 3mm bolt and some rings to make it all fit
That is in fact the only part you have to buy with this design: a 40mm x 3mm bolt and some rings.
Hi, sorry if my question sounds stupid ... but... why this feeder should be better than the original one? I've read that with this one you should solve under extrusion problems, how? Thank you for your attention :)
Hi Robert, is it possible to get step or cad file of the parts? need to make few modification for 1.75 bowden. Thanks!
The left wheel touches the wheel to the right of motors.When I insert the filament does not pass between the two wheels, but slips out in the middle, see rectangle in colored in red.What should I do? See the picture: http://it.tinypic.com/r/2mebejp/8.
Thank you.
Ah, got it. Thanks!
@Ross Fischer, people kept complaining that that piece was too short, or too long. So I made a bunch. Try the 38mm one.
Sorry for this dumb question...
There are many "Yoke and Hub" pieces with different measurements in mm. Is that for different diameter bearings?
@christiank79: There's a youtube video showing how to assemble it and there's three pictures of the finished assembly. I don't know what more I can do... It's probably a better idea if you post a picture of your assembly instead.
I don’t understand what should I do. I screw is to tight?The filament motor is running, but it doesn’t go in the Bowden tube. Do you send me an example video or pictures?Thank you very much.
Christian,
If the filament gets "eaten" (local indentation, wear) your screw is to tight. If i'ts to loose, it wil skid (because of the resistance bowden/hotend).
Both will result in to slow movement.
btw, I'm printing a year with this extruder and no problems here.... You just need to develop some "fingershpizengefhul" to tweak it.
@pmdude I have problem with the screw holding the spring.Where I send a photo or video?
Sorry but your comment is unclear. What is the problem? Do you have problem with the spring tension or do you have problem with the screw holding the spring or with the screw holding the bearing?
Hello,
I installed the new feeder, but the screw in the left with the spring.It’s well? I entered the filament but is slow.What can I do? Could you advise me how should I do? Thank you very much.
I had the same issues as described by freaksed. Often, the filament snapped with a loud bang when there was resistance in the bowden or nozzle. With the improved yoke, issue is now resolved.

- Printed on:
- ultimaker original
- Result:
- Good Results
- Feedback:
- I slapped one on my Frankenstein UM Original with an MK7 gear that I had laying around. I also had to add a 4mm Nema 17 suport under the feeder to clear the lip on the UM Original (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/stepper-motor-nema-17-support). It works pretty good. I've had the motor slip a bit, and am thinking of adding a high torque 60mm stepper.
Hello,
I have a peoblem with the inbulid support material on the arm.
All support matieral is shown in cura, but not in the layer view and it will not be printed.
Have anyone the same problem?
Thanks
Marcus

- Printed on:
- Printrbot - Simple Metal
- Result:
- Excellent results. The best feeder for me so far.
- Feedback:
- I've had issues for 2 weeks which seems infinite when you print every day. This is the only feeder that gave me excellent results (i've tried 6 different solutions even with mk8 and mk7 gears). It works very well, and is very convenient. The option to remove the filament when something is stranded is very useful (you no more grind on your filament when sometimes you have to pull it off!). You load and unload filament in a breeze. It prints flexible filament like charm. This is definitely THE UM2 feeder for me. Thanks a lot Robert !
Robert thank you, that's great. I can finally use the Filaflex.

- Printed on:
- Ultimaker - The Ultimaker 2
- Result:
- TOP. My printer works perfect now. No more problems with the feeder and the material. Thanks!
- Feedback:
- And I can try the Ninjaflex filament now! And I used the modified version: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/yet-another-ultimaker-2-feeder But that's in general this design