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Low friction UM2 spoolholder
A replacement spoolholder for the UM2 which offers very little resistance when unspooling.
3D printer parts and enhancements
Creative Commons Attribution Noncommercial Share Alike
Commercial use is not allowed, you must attribute the creator, you may remix this work and the remixed work should be made available under this license.
Description
Update: Added parts for 608 bearings and associated hardware.
Update2: hreedjik has created a mount for the UM1: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:251409
Print, screw together, mount and keep printing. Not much to it really.
Materials and methods
In addition to the printed parts you will need:
- 2x 626 bearings (cheap on Ebay)
- 1x 6mm threaded rod, 95+mm long
- 3x M6 nuts
OR for the "608" parts:
- 2x 608 bearings
- 1x 8mm threaded rod, 95+mm long (better to cut after assembling to make sure)
- 3x M8 nuts
Please note that I haven't printed and tested the 608 parts as I don't have the hardware for those at the moment.
Documents
Issues
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Comments
Very clever design, I have been trying to work out a simple way to make a bearing spool holder. Fresh idea's are great when your stuck with your own idea's. Thank you.
Hi
Is it possible to make Mount part (the one that attaches to the case of the printer) thinner therefore making the whole filament spool closer to the case of the printer?
- Printed on:
- Ultimaker 2
- Result:
- Excellent. I chose some 100mm m6 rod that was only threaded on the ends, and I could have used perhaps 2 more millimeters of thread.
- Feedback:
- I was a little confused by the assembly, but figured it out. Retraction boogers on the inside of Core1 made it difficult to get the bearing all the way in.
Funny I can't edit comments. I missed mentioning I printed the 608 version.
Now only if wheel of fortune spun that good. It could be a 3 hour show! Or whats that show that has the showcase showdown... Oh yea the price is right.
I find it hard to find anything to grab that doesn't rotate when I want to take the empty spool off and replace it.
Also the "608 nut" adds a lot of depth. I don't know how to modify it yet to solve both issues.
I have a modified version of 608-mount that includes a load cell for meassuring the weight of the remaining filament on the spool.
Do you want your logo removed?
Obviously I'll give proper attribution in the description and share it with the same license when it's done.

- Printed on:
- Ultimaker 2+ Extended
- Result:
- Very usefull. I used the extra long 608 core from thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1274248). There is also a extra long 626 core. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/lowfriction-spoolholder-modification (Instead of what the maker says it is really for the 626 6mm bearing. )
Works very well! "608 Nut" adds a lot of depth. I'll have to find a way to make is slimmer, so the machine still fits into the case I had custom made for it.
What's the maximum spool diameter that fits? (I'm using Colorfabb 2.2Kg spools.)
This is the greatest...I used the 626 bearings.
- Printed on:
- Ultimaker - The Ultimaker 2
- Result:
- Printed great with a little tweeking. Printed in ABS at 0.16 layer height and 15% infill
- Feedback:
- Built with 626 bearing. Needed to add some internal dimensions to spacer to tight of a fit with 6mm threaded rod. Spacer had to be extended in Z - Axis only, to use with longer core. Directions confusing but end product works great.
I made this with Tricki's 74mm core and the 608 bearings, and it works very nicely. I didn't have any M8 threaded rod, so I used some 5/16-18 rod I had laying around, and that worked just fine.
Extended 74mm core and spacer for 608 bearings can now be found here:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/74-mm-core-for-iroberti-spoolholder
Thanks for an awesome spoolholder iRoberti :)

- Printed on:
- Ultimaker - The Ultimaker 2
- Result:
- Excellent
- Feedback:
- I printed the 608 and can confirm it's working out perfect. Just thinking the core could be 70 mm long by default to fit UM spools + up to 20 mm wider spools with some threads left. The big nut threads past the end of the core anyway, so maybe I'll print the 90 mm core and just use that.
I found the slot into the Ultimaker 2 a little sloppy, other than that it was great!
Any chance you can make a thinner spool (utilising most of the same parts). I have some spools that are 32mm and wont fit on this.
I love this holder. Would it be possible to get the Core 2 in a 100mm version. Some of my 1KG spools are a lot deeper and therefore don't fit on the 80mm core.
@jeex, no worries, I've also printed this great add-on in Colorfab PLA over a year ago and had no issues with the strength of that particular piece. It works like a charm and has never failed
Just printed it in Colorfabb PLA. Works great. Although i keep my doubts at the part that goes into the UM2. It's all hanging at e thin piece of PLA. The original UM2 broke down at that very spot.
Think i'll print that part out of PETG (Hestay.nl) which is really strong, but does not smell as bad as ABS.

- Printed on:
- Ultimaker - The Ultimaker 2
- Result:
- Excellent print. I printed the M6 version with the longer 80mm core. I used the settings in the instructions apart from speeding it up a little to help things along. As someone else has found, the 80mm core and the nut were a very close fit and I also used toothpaste to grind it to in! No washers needed anywhere, just a little loc-tite on the ends. If you also choose to print the 80mm core, you will need to make the spacer longer. I extended it by 27.5mm in the end to get a perfect fit (started at +30mm and then shaved it down as required. Oh and if it helps, my nuts were 5mm and that meant I needed 121mm of M6 threaded bar.
- Printed on:
- Ultimaker - The Ultimaker 2
- Result:
- The result was outstanding! Printing in Uganda East Africa! If I can print it here, you can print it anywhere! I used the 626 bearing setup and found all the parts in local hardware stores. I had to go to several hardware stores, because, well, there are no “Home Depots” here! The result was amazing! Fantastic! Works much better than I ever imagined! No more tangles, stalls, friction, headaches!
- Feedback:
- Robert, you are AMAZING, dude. Seriously. Well designed. Fabulous! THANK YOU SO MUCH ROBERT!
- Printed on:
- Ultimaker 2
- Result:
- The thread of the core 2 and the nut was a little tight but I got it working well after using a little lapping compound (IE toothpaste). To be honest I am happy with it and am working on a redesign of the spoolholder core 1 so I can use some older spools that have a 70mm core.
- Printed on:
- Ultimaker - The Ultimaker 2
- Result:
- Great!
- Feedback:
- In combination with the printer stands, see photos, allowing the filament to rest in air and with set of 2 ball bearing filament guide wheels the print results are amazing. There is literally no friction before the filament enters the feeder mechanism. The under extrusion now happens only when lying down the first layer, we believe this is due to the leveling of the print plate. As soon as the printer goes to the second layer all is fine. After which we print at average 130% of standard speed with no errors so far. The printers are running almost all the time. Also we use 235 degrees temperature for the PLA, as we noticed with the standard temperature the under extrusion was occurring despite the improvements. The second wheel guide (under the feeder) is important as it prevents the filament to push against the white element in the feeder and effectively lowering the pressure against the motor spindle.

- Printed on:
- Ultimaker - The Ultimaker 2
- Result:
- Printed Perfectly in Ultimaker Blue PLA. 0,1mm Layers, 25% Infill (Except for the mount, increased to 50%). Printed the 608 version and used a M8 10cm bolt. Spacer was 2mm too long, so I non-uniformly lowered the Z-scale by 2mm in Cura. Provides a low-friction option of mounting your filament spools on UM2 so I no longer have to increase the 'slack' in the filament every 3 hours or so. If you can get hold of the bearings I very much recommend this upgrade.