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Global Link (Earth: Final Conflict)
Reproduction of the "Global Link" prop from "Earth: Final Conflict"Other
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Commercial use is allowed, you must attribute the creator, you may remix this work and the remixed work should be made available under this license.
The "Global Link" smartphone from the TV series Earth: Final Conflict (which aired 10 years before the first iPhone was released).
(More images after all the 3D parts, including an assembly diagram, but YouMagine doesn't seem to want to allow me to reorder them.)
For best results with an FDM printer, it has been split up into sections which should be glued or epoxied together. This is not a "press print, wait for it finish, and you're done" model. Supports are strongly recommended.
This is a static open/closed version. I will eventually make a "hero" version with the accordion arm and roller-shade screen; I just need to obtain the right kind of spring before I can design the mechanism appropriately.
Materials and methods
Printed in PLA on an Ultimaker 2+ (supports, 0.12mm resolution, 25% infill).
I got the best results with the screen printed vertically. To ensure that it remained stable, I put down blue tape on the build plate and wiped the tape down with isopropyl alcohol immediately before the print. This provided excellent adhesion (so good, in fact, that I had to soak it in alcohol again afterwards to get the tape off the part). The rest of the parts were just printed on bare glass.
Assembly diagram is included.
The whole thing was printed in 3Dom Ingeo PLA. Most of it was printed in white, and then sanded, primed, and then painted; the "power LED" was printed in natural PLA (translucent) and left unpainted; the belt clip was printed in black and left unpainted.
- Vallejo Black (ribbed portion on the main case)
- Vallejo Basalt Grey (handle, screen, outer bit on the main case part)
- Vallejo Neutral Grey under Golden Iridescent Stainless Steel (main case, button)
- Testors Gloss Black (camera lens, hat switch)
- Behr "Sun Valley" interior house paint (screen)
Modeled in Blender, working from numerous screenshots from throughout the first season. I estimated a height of 6 inches (not including the camera housing).
If you'd like to print out a screen graphic for display, rather than using a green or blue screen for chromakey, I've included an overlay to composite over your photograph of choice and print, in both SVG and PNG (300 DPI) versions. Inkscape was used to create the graphic.
Issues are used to track todos, bugs or requests. To get started, you could create an issue.
I quit worrying about that when I started researching TOS phasers. Just in the Type I alone, there were sharp and rounded corners on the "crispy"; aluminum rails, painted-on rails, and rails painted on over Velcro slapped on the side; different-colored watch crowns, faceted crystals, or nothing at all between the thumb wheel and force setting gauge; brass or black emitter tubes; silver or black or missing "trigger buttons" on the bottom; more or less of a "teardrop" shape from above; and so on. And often, the same prop could be different from episode to episode, as it got damaged and repaired.
Same with the Global Link here; some had belt clips and some didn't (even in subsequent shots that were supposed to be the same exact device); sometimes the belt clip tapered and sometimes it didn't; in one episode, Kincaid's prop had no belt clip, but two red LEDs on the back (one on the main body and one on the handle); sometimes the back of the screen on the static "open" prop was a solid piece, and sometimes it was clearly made up of smaller segments; sometimes the front lens was a slightly different shape or size; and several other little differences from prop to prop.
If I were making a replica of a specific item at a specific point in time, yeah, I'd probably obsess over fractions of a millimeter; but once I started looking at things closely enough to see differences in purportedly identical props, it became a lot easier to stop obsessing over accuracy and go for an idealized version rather than an exact duplicate.
I always have that cringe moment when I post a model of a prop from TV or film because of the obsession with being 100% accurate but it's just not possible.
But sure there's a point; there's always room for other interpretations. (I'm sure mine isn't 100% accurate - in fact, I know it's not, because I made some compromises to take FDM printing idiosyncracies into account.)
Nice job! I started work on this model awhile ago but haven't gotten back to finishing it. I guess there's no point now.